Is Scotland the Dog-Friendliest Luxury Vacation Destination?

Dogs travel free on U.K. trains, so this couple rode the rails with their pup up from London to Scotland to luxury-hop among pet-friendly hotels, lodges and castles. T+L tip: Keep eyes on the skies at places known for falconry. 

TOFFEE IS A THREE-YEAR-OLD Taiwanese mountain dog who we adopted as a pup from the great people at the animal rescue foundation PAWS in Hong Kong. Following our recent relocation to the U.K., we embarked with her on a weeklong train adventure exploring luxe, dog-friendly hotels and destinations in Scotland, winding up in London.  

Train travel would mean a low footprint, room for Toffee to sleep, and the chance for us to marvel at the verdant beauty of the gently rolling British countryside… at least when it wasn’t raining. We’d travelled with Toffee on trains before (you don’t pay for dogs in the U.K.), but a five-hour journey to Edinburgh with no breaks seemed to represent another, slightly more daunting level of self-control, as it were. 

But she loved sleeping under our chairs, occasionally stopping for a biiiiiiigggg stretch or to enjoy someone stopping by to say hello. Although she’s a common breed across much of Southeast Asia, in the U.K. she’s a rare sight—which actually isn’t difficult when every other dog seems to be a cockapoo (#controversial). 

In an impressive travel planning fail, our first stop of Edinburgh was perfectly timed for the start of festival season, by far the busiest time of year. However, the Athens of the North was more compelling than ever with street performers at every turn, while Toffee’s introduction to the delicate, fragrant gourmet delight of haggis was a definite hit. 

We stayed at Prestonfield House, nestled at the foot of the extinct volcano of Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park. This 16th-century beauty exudes history and charm, with its antique décor, art, memorabilia and tartan which combine to create an endearingly romantic atmosphere.  

Toffee received a royal welcome, amenities galore and a plush bed, while her favorite pastime quickly became gazing longingly at the squirrels taunting her from the beautifully manicured gardens. Sublime meals at breakfast, lunch, and dinner made it difficult to leave, but Edinburgh awaited. 

There were mountains to climb and ancient cobblestones to navigate, but the most poignant moment was a visit to the grave of Greyfriars Bobby, a tear-jerkingly loyal Highland terrier who spent 14 years by his master’s graveside. People still visit his statue to rub his nose for good luck and leave sticks in his memory. Aw.  

Back on the train with our own loyal dog, our travel continued west through Scotland to the small town of Dunblane, home to the splendid Cromlix House. This luxurious but understated country house hotel happens to be owned by tennis superstar and all-round hero Andy Murray, along with his wife, Kim. If you could fall in love with antiques, this is the place to do it. Rooms redefined charming and cosy, but the biggest hit was arguably the incredible shortbread made from the recipe of Andy’s grandmother. Butter was definitely involved. 

The extensive grounds featured their own tennis court, natch, as well as a lovely wee loch. Creative cocktails—hello, whisky—followed by beautifully executed plates at dinner showed why this is one of the region’s most popular destinations for locals and international visitors alike. 

Early morning at Cromlix was an especially magical time—thanks again for waking us up at 6 a.m., Toffee—with wild deer grazing on the lawns and walks that showed the abundance of wildlife in this perfectly peaceful slice of central Scotland. 

All aboard the next train to Pitlochry, known as the gateway to the Scottish Highlands, home to the dramatic 19th-century Fonab Castle, for our final stop north of the border. This 42-bedroom red-brick beauty overlooks another outrageously pretty loch, this time backed by snow-capped mountains.  

An uber-comfortable room in a contemporary wing of the hotel featured all the amenities that a lady dog could wish for, while the friendly staff even insisted on taking her for a walk. We explored the lush pathways, rivers, and cosy pubs serving local beer while breathing in the purest mountain air. One highlight was falconry on their immaculate lawns; we walked the loch as the falcon flew above us—this was a Toffee-less session for obvious reasons. 

Our final train journey brought us back to London, where we spent two nights at the magnificent Four Seasons Hotel at 10 Trinity Square. This historic gem, located across from the Tower of London, served as an extraordinary base for exploring the rich history, sights, and attractions of the city.  

Toffee was again royally spoilt, complete with beauty products and ‘Posh Pooch’—aka wine for dogs. Oh yes indeed. Market fiends will love the food Mecca of Borough and funky designs in Spitalfields, both within an easy stroll of the hotel, but the biggest draw was Thames-side walks, taking in the city’s incredible layers of history at every step. 

Unseasonable, heatwave-esque weather added to the experience, while dining in the hotel’s fine Chinese restaurant Mei Ume evoked fond memories of our former home in Hong Kong – where Toffee had begun her own remarkable journey. 

Photographs by Chris Dwyer, unless otherwise noted.

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