The Vietage is the way to ride the rails in Vietnam in style, so we sent a pair of T+L Kids to take the high-end train journey along the country’s beautiful central coast.

INCREDIBLY LONG AND SUPER BEAUTIFUL, Vietnam hasn’t had a really comfy way to get around the country while also seeing its landscape until recently. Now, there’s The Vietage, a luxury train that travels between Da Nang and Quy Nhon, which really is a gamechanger, not just for champagne-sipping grown-ups but also families looking for both adventure and the convenience of not getting on a plane.

So you can visit the adorable, lantern-filled UNESCO World Heritage ancient town on Hoi An, with its pedestrian laneways great for frolicking and cool old buildings fun for exploring; the famed white-sand stretches of My Khe Beach, offering both luxury resorts and, at late-afternoon, a slice of life as local families hit the waters; and the up-and-coming city of Da Nang, now brimming with great restaurants and shops and featuring that photogenic Dragon Bridge… then easily make your way to Quy Nhon, another city with ancient roots, ruins dating back a millennia from the Cham Empire that dominated here, and a stunning seaside that was essentially undiscovered by foreign tourists until the past several years.  

Through the central Vietnam mountains in between, as our T+L kids found out, are a few fun hours aboard The Vietage. Aria indulged in a very-grown-up cheese plate and shoulder massage, and even squeezed in time for a nap.

Watch the video of Aria’s train trip through Vietnam about The Vietage here:

Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia was actually one of the first aboard The Vietage when it opened during covid. Check out our review of the ride here.

The Vietage train through central Vietnam departs from Da Nang Railway Station near Hoi An each morning, and makes the return journey from Quy Nhon every evening. You might want to look into their combination accommodation packages with train ride plus stays at Anantara Hoi An Resort and Anantara Quy Nhon Villas or Avani Quy Nhon Resort.

Ah, the thrill of the open road. Enthusiasts will tell you that two-wheeled road trips are the only true way to immerse yourself in a location’s culture, people and landscape. We scouted out 5 gorgeous countries in Asia for motorbike trips of a lifetime, and the best companies to book your tours with or rent your wheels from.

SCOOTERS, MOTORBIKES, MOTORCYCLES, mopeds, mosai, dirt bikes – whatever your saddle and terminology of choice, it only takes a few seconds on the ground in Asia to realize this continent runs on two wheels. From fitting families of five on the back to entire refrigerators, motorbikes are often more than just a mode of transportation.

But when you buck practicality, they’re made for joyriding. And it seems almost clandestine that some of the world’s best motorcycle routes are in Asia. From the mountains of the Himalayas to the rice paddies of Southeast Asia, these are the best, and some perhaps most unexpected, destinations for hopping on and taking off on the ride of a lifetime. 

5 Countries in Asia With Awesome Motorbike Adventures, and the Best Companies to Book Your Trips With

Vietnam

Spend a day riding around Vietnam, and you’ll encounter everything from frenzied intersections to swaying rice paddies to sweeping mountain vistas. The diversity of landscape and riding options make it one of the best places in not just Asia but the world for motorcycle trips.

No one knows the terrain better than Onyabike Adventures. With trips of up to 21 days, their tours are customizable and all-inclusive, so riders experience everything, including culture and food, and worry about nothing while on a Royal Enfield Himalayan 410cc.

The team at Onyabike Adventures has been roaming Vietnam since 2017, so they know all the best spots. Among their most popular is the seven-day Highlights of Central Vietnam route that rides over the iconic Hai Van Pass and along the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka isn’t just for surf trips and train rides. From its palm-fringed coastline to its tea-filled interior, it’s a beautiful place to explore at your own pace.

The crew at Ceylon Motorcycle Tours has a varied fleet of bikes to choose from, including a Baja 250 CC or a Royal Enfield. And while you can rent one and head off solo, riding is always better with a buddy. They’ve got 20 years of experience, local guides and the best motorbike tours and routes for all Sri Lanka’s highlights, Tangalle to Ella.

Bhutan

Switchback roads and mountain-peak views make Bhutan one of the most beautiful countries on Earth for motorbike trips. Ideal during spring and fall, it’s perfect for adventurous bikers who don’t mind dodging the occasional yak or two.

Bhutan T.U.S.K Motorcycle Tours specializes in touring the Himalayan country on two wheels. Fixed trip routes span four nights to 14, taking riders through some of the most famous and the most remote parts of the country.

For a far-flung ride, head to eastern Bhutan, where mysticism and magical views converge. If you’re looking for something shorter, opt for a trip that includes the route from the capital city of Thimphu to the country’s most famous dzong in Punakha.

Kyrgyzstan 

While we stan the Stans, to some folks this motorcycle destination might feel like a roadside cow coming out of nowhere. But as soon as you coast down the Silk Road, you’ll understand why it makes our list.

Nicknamed the Switzerland of Central Asia, the majority of the country is covered by the Tien-Shan mountain ranges. SilkOffRoad Motorcycle Tours has been riding these mountain passes for more than 18 years, roving all over all the Stans. Their most popular Kyrgyzstan trip is the 11 Passes of Tien-Shan that lasts 12 days. The riders mount a Suzuki DR650 and take off on a journey that spans over 2,000 kilometers and reaches nearly 3,000 meters in elevation.

Laos

Landscapes in Laos are like scenes out of Jurassic Park. Lush jungle and leafy peaks dominate this all too underrated country, one of the best in Southeast Asia for spicy food, languid days, and dream-fulfilling motorbike tours. In a country this unique, your road trip should be, too. 

Lao ADV Tours specializes in Dirt Bike trips venturing off-road through the country’s hidden trails. One of their most popular tours is the 10-day Lima Sites and Secret War Trails route, on which military-history enthusiasts can visit Northern Lao sites. Just be prepared to get muddy.

Lede image courtesy of SilkOffRoad Motorcycle Tours.

If you have always dreamt of travelling to Europe without having the hassle of changing flights, trains or rental cars, then we tell you that it is now possible to be on the road on a single bus journey that will take you across Europe in 56 days! An Indian expedition company – Adventures Overland is launching the “world’s longest” bus journey called ‘The bus to London’ starting from Istanbul on August 7 and ending in London on October 1.

At present, the longest bus route runs from Lima in Peru to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil for 6,200 kilometres, according to Guinness World Records.

Highlights of the trip

This almost two-month-long journey will take you to 22 countries beginning from Turkey’s culturally rich city of Istanbul, moving towards the Balkan countries, covering eastern Europe, Scandinavia, and western Europe and finally coming to an end in the capital city of the UK. The passengers on this 12,000 kilometres long journey will be able to board a ferry that will cross the Gulf of Finland, visit the North Cape (also known as Nordkapp), which is the northernmost point in Europe and cruise on the Norwegian Fjords.

“Every single route in each country has been vetted to ensure that the journey is seamless so participants on Bus to London can get on board with the knowledge and confidence that they are in safe hands,” mentions Tushar Agarwal, Co-Founder, Adventures Overland, in a media release.

What can you expect inside the bus?

The thought of being on a bus journey in Europe for 56 days doesn’t sound comfortable till the time we tell you that you will be boarding a special luxury bus that has adjustable recliner seats with comfortable legroom that is perfect for long-distance travel. The bus has foldable trays, bottle and cup holders, along with AUX and USB ports. All passengers can carry two full-size suitcases.

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Sharing details on travellers’ comfort and safety, Agarwal said, “The bus on this epic journey is being customised to add all the necessities, comforts and luxuries which will ensure that participants travel in the lap of luxury.”

Cost of the package

The entire package will cost USD 25,000 per person. This includes daily breakfast, 30 lunches and dinners, along with all hotel stays on a twin-sharing basis.

Booking details

Only 30 passengers can register themselves to be a part of this journey.

(Hero and feature image credit: Adventures Overland)

Related: This 12-day Private Jet Tour of Europe Will Bring You to London, the Greek Islands, Italy, and Croatia in Style

Travel through Austria in Sisi´s Footsteps—Netflix Series The Empress is Inspiring Travelers to Visit Austria and See the Places Where Empress Elisabeth of Austria Lived

NEW NETFLIX SERIES The Empress has set minds across the planet ablaze with interest in the inspiring royal’s life. It also placed Austria on the travel bucket lists of viewers worldwide, who daydream about seeing the places where the beloved Austrian empress, nicknamed Sisi, lived.

In response to worldwide interest in visiting Sisi’s favorite places, the Austrian National Tourist Office developed a cache of information about the real locations where the beautiful aristocrat lived in Austria to help fans plan trips to the unique historical locations. 

From her exciting life at the strict Viennese court to adventurous travel and extravagant culinary preferences, her life weaved a fascinating journey across Austria. Now, you can follow her footsteps across the land where she lived, loved, and suffered. Enjoy historical highlights, magnificent parks, imperial gardens and much more.

The Imperial Palace in Vienna

There is no better starting point to learn about Sisi than a visit to her private apartment and the Sisi Museum inside Vienna’s Imperial Palace, also known as Hofburg. Visitors discover the monarch’s umbrellas, fans, beauty recipes, and private first-aid kit, providing an intriguing glimpse into the empress’s everyday life. 

Though Hofburg was built in 1279, it still plays an important role in Austrian politics. The former winter residence of the Habsburg dynasty, which Sisi married into, now serves as the workplace of the President of Austria.

No Hofburg visit is complete without viewing the illuminated palace by night and strolling through the beautiful Burggarten, full of hidden courtyards and historical secrets to discover.

When visitors need refreshment, they can savor Sisi’s favorite sweet indulgences at Royal Court Confectionery Demel, which sits near the palace. Inside the neo-Baroque bakery, sample sumptuous cakes and try the purple violet ice cream that even the super-slim Sisi could not resist. 

Schönbrunn Palace

The Habsburg summer residence is where visitors can experience the glamor of Sisi’s dazzling personality. The finest, richly embroidered silk fabrics adorn upholstered furniture and the wallpaper glows in vibrant violet, the monarch’s favorite color.

Sisi’s rooms have been kept exactly the way they were when she was alive, allowing guests to picture her sitting in her private chamber, applying face cream and brushing her ankle-length hair. To experience the palace as Sisi did, take a walk through the beautiful gardens, which Sisi especially loved. 

There’s no better time to visit, as the palace has recently installed its first virtual reality experience, letting visitors immerse themselves in the world of the Habsburgs and the former empress in a 24-minute experience.

Imperial Villa in Bad Ischl

Just two hours from Vienna by train, fans can explore the picturesque village of Bad Ischl, where Sisi and Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria’s legendary love story began. It is said to have been love at first sight, and Sisi soon accepted his betrothal bouquet. A year later, the wedding was celebrated in Vienna and the couple was gifted this villa in Bad Ischl.

Travelers can visit this villa, where Sisi experienced some of her happiest and saddest moments today. It is where she fell in love and had her final meeting with her husband. She arrived in Bad Ischl as a young, impetuous girl and left as the future Empress of Austria.

After taking in the culture of Bad Ischl, relax at Confiserie Zauner. The nearby court confectioner combines tradition and indulgence and made some of Sisi’s favorite treats.

Laxenburg Palace

Sisi’s honeymoon location is a half-hour train ride away from Vienna, but it wasn’t the romantic escape she hoped for.  Her new husband worked while she strolled through the palace park, full of temples, grottoes, old trees and meadows. Today, it is one of the most beautiful historic landscape gardens in Europe and a pleasure to visit.

Whichever of Sisi’s footsteps you follow in Austria, you’ll experience a place rich in history, nature, and cuisine. Austria is a country of friendly people that embrace history alongside modernity and live in harmony with nature.

www.austria.info/en

Article sponsored by Austrian National Tourist Office.
Hero Image Credit: Franzensburg Castle, Laxenburg. Courtesy of Österreich Werbung x Media Redaktion

This month, T+L celebrates travel by highlighting all the wonder and awe you can find in this great, wide world of ours.

I RECENTLY READ AN article that inspired me. It was about how injecting awe into your life can change everything for the better. Awe, according to Dacher Keltner, a psychologist at the University of California, Berkeley, is a powerful emotion that can generate a positive physical response and the amazing thing about it is we can find it everywhere if we just take a minute to be mindful.

“Awe is the feeling of being in the presence of something vast that transcends your understanding of the world,” Keltner told the New York Times in an interview about his book, “Awe: The New Science of Everyday Wonder and How It Can Transform Your Life,” and what better way to describe the essence of why we travel. Shift your worldview, change your perspective, and guess what. Not only do you think you’re washed over with a sense of calm, your heart rate actually slows, your breathing deepens, you release oxytocin, your digestion eases, and – perhaps best of all in this hyperconnected world – you quiet that self-critical voice in your head.

I bet we could all think of a favorite travel experience that meets some of the top examples of experiencing awe. Small sightings of singular beauty. Immersing in nature. Participating in collective movement. Going on a pilgrimage. Witnessing the world through a child’s eye is a good one, and I need only think of watching my toddler nieces and their pure joy in the waves in Phuket. “Hoorayyyy!” rings in my ears. and brings a smile to my face.

The vastness of the universe? For me, that would be during the inky nights of a weeklong sailing in the Mergui, the archipelago off the west coast of Burma where there’s zero cell reception but there are a gajillion stars. It made me think in wonder of the real intrepid sailors who centuries ago navigated our world’s waters just by the celestial patterns so far away and so much older than we could imagine.

Many experiences of awe are tinged by fear. Skydiving – check! But also getting up close to wildlife; animals are unpredictable and nature doesn’t necessarily follow rules. I’ve swum with mantas in the Maldives and dolphins in New Zealand, both in the middle of the open ocean. Both were awesome experiences I couldn’t stop gushing about for months after. Both put me in check about how much of the world is a mystery to me.

Witnessing random acts of kindness. Well, I could likely find awe in that every day if I looked up from my phone more, but I certainly notice it almost every time I travel, when a local person takes time to offer directions, translate for me, or not only allows me to use the bathroom in their home but then offers a parting snack – thank you to the Mexican grandmother in the wooden house on the mountain pass between Oaxaca and Mazunte; you really saved that roadtrip.

So, now that travel is truly back for almost all of us, let’s take this month to think about how awesome it is. February at Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia is all about the #awefactor. We hope it’ll help change your perspective and inspire new journeys.

Image Credit: swissmediavision/Getty Images Signature/Canva.

Austria is the delicious viticulture secret we are honestly reluctant to share. This small European nation punches above its weight in wine, with unique varietals created by the unusual terroir and a wine-making tradition stretching back thousands of years.

A FEW YEARS AGO I had the immensely good fortune to be invited to a dinner in Bangkok with Dorli Muhr. The name did not immediately ring a bell beforehand, but it is one I’ll never forget, for this Austrian woman winemaker changed the way I think of wine. The premise of the evening was to show how well wine could pair with Thai food, if you just bothered to think outside the box. The location was bo.lan, now shuttered but for years a pioneer in high-end Thai cuisine using heritage ingredients from small-batch, organic growers. The match with Weingut Dorli Muhr could not have been more perfect. Her family-owned certified organic winery specializes in the traditional grape of the Spitzerberg region in Austria, Blaufrankisch, a concentrated yet graceful red distinguished by extreme weather conditions and ancient limestone in the terroir.

Blaufrankisch, the style that pulled this white-lover into the rich world of heirloom red, is one of the five most important Austrian varietals and, in my opinion, reason alone to visit the country. The fruit is small, aromatic, and creates wine that slides over the tongue like light velvet. Austrians have been growing wine for thousands of years, and while you may know some of their other four top grapes – Gruner Veltliner, a peppery, acidic white; the full-bodied, cherry-toned Zweigelt; Riesling, which is delightfully drier from vineyards along the Danube than those in the Rhine; and sparkling Sekt – there’s always more deliciousness to discover.

Though a small nation, the terrain of Austria is incredibly diverse, creating the perfect environment to grow a range of wines, many you’ve probably never heard of – and the perfect destination to do a wine-tasting road trip. Start in Vienna, and not just for the gorgeous historic sites: it’s the only major wine-producing world capital, with 700 hectares of vineyards all within the city limits. Be sure to visit a Viennese Heurigen, a traditional type of winery on the UNESCO intangible cultural Heritage list. Fuhrgassl-Huber is a bucolic spot to begin your Austrian wine journey. History buffs will also want to head a bit north of the capital to Klosterneuburg Abbey, one of the oldest and largest wineries in Austria, whose cellar is an incredible 36 meters deep in the Earth.

Indeed, Austrian wine, of which there are 35 approved varietals, is mainly produced in the eastern side of the country. Just an hour’s drive from Vienna is Burgenland, a prime Blaufrankisch region that also produces great Gruners, Chardonnays, Pinot Blancs, and Ruster Ausbruch, one of the world’s most famous sweet wines. The area is characterized geographically by fresh-air, big sky and silvery Lake Neusiedl, and personally by innovative winemakers, forward-thinking chefs and an inviting mix of modern and traditional aesthetics and sensibilities. It’s one of those places you visit on vacation and automatically begin to contemplate whether you should move your life there.

Farther south, Styria charms with castles, medieval architecture, and the UNESCO World Heritage Old Town of Graz. All of which will look even better through rose-colored glasses. The rose, that is, that you’ll find on the nose of Traminer wines in the village of Kloch. Surely you’ve heard of the Chianti Road in Tuscany, but let’s keep the South Styria Wine Road just between us. Five years ago, all three wine-growing regions in Styria received DAC status, meaning you really want to spend some time hopping among the various little taverns known as buschenschanken to sample the local favorites from small-house grower-vintners.

The third major wine-growing region in the country is of course Lower Austria, also known as Niederösterreich, birthplace of Weinviertel DAC (certified Gruner Veltliner), land of unique and esoteric white varietals like Zierfandler and Rotgipflerof, boasting a varied terroir that allows numerous international and domestic grapes to thrive, and home to Dorli Muhr. She’s but one of many personalities passionate about viticulture you’ll encounter across Austria, Europe’s secret powerhouse wine country.

www.austria.info/en

Article sponsored by Austrian National Tourist Office.

There is so much to see and appreciate in Japan, the choices are endless. But to enjoy the best of the bustling capital and the quieter, picturesque rural areas, there’s a new route worth exploring.

A TRIP TO TAKE IN busy Tokyo, and the more rural region of Niigata – is a journey that shows two very different faces of Japan.

Little publicized outside of the country, Niigata is an oasis of rural culture, boasting vibrant, green terraced rice paddies in summer, and snow layered mountains in winter. A complete contrast to the bustling, and ever-changing Tokyo cityscape.

And it’s a quick trip, taking approximately 70 minutes – on the direct Shinkansen (aka bullet train) service – to go between Tokyo station and Niigata’s Echigo-Yuzawa station. Or alternatively, approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive.

Here are some highlights of Tokyo and Niigata.

Tokyo

Japan’s capital truly has something for everyone, whether it’s bright lights and shopping, or an opportunity to enjoy ancient arts.

Bonsai tree cultivation is a hallmark of traditional Japanese culture, and there’s nowhere better to see it than at the Shunkaen Bonsai Museum. Over 1000 bonsai line a garden, complete with a carp filled pond, next to a traditional Japanese house. Idyllic? Absolutely.

The Shunkaen Bonsai Museum is a place of peace, and rich with culture. It ensures this revered, and quintessentially Japanese time-honored tradition, can be shared with the world.

The museum also offers classes (for a fee, and available in English and Chinese) where you can experience the hands-on charm of bonsai. Classes can be booked three days in advance, and you only need to bring your sense of curiosity as all tools are provided.

About 1 hour by bus and train from the Shunkaen Bonsai Museum you can experience the Shibuya district, one of the most dynamic parts of Tokyo. There’s nothing quite like taking in the sights and sounds of the “Shibuya Scramble Crossing” – the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing – an iconic Shibuya landmark that brings the electric vibes of Tokyo into one place.

After dark, the Scramble Crossing – comes alive, awash with neon lights from bright bustling shop fronts and modern buildings.

Shibuya is also in the midst of a major evolution, as one of Japan’s largest redevelopment projects set to transform the area through to 2027. Since Shibuya Hikarie opened its doors in 2012, a string of projects have followed: Shibuya Stream, Shibuya Bridge, Shibuya Fukuras, and including Shibuya Scramble Square, one of the tallest buildings in Shibuya, opened in 2019.

As complexes keep sprouting up across the local skyline, Shibuya will further evolve into an international city where business, food, art, fashion, and various other attractions gather.

Niigata

While Niigata’s not-so-far from Tokyo, in both distance and ease of travel, it feels far from removed from the capital’s frantic pace.

With an abundance of mountains, forests and farmlands, Niigata’s history is firmly tied to nature. The mountainous Matsudai area of Tokamachi City not only receives some of world’s highest snowfall totals in the world, it harbors a thriving traditional snow country culture.

On the lower slopes of the mountains, terraced rice fields ((known as “segaeda”) have been cultivated for hundreds of years. Local farmers have created new terraces by planting trees, after mudslides, to change the flow of the river. Ensuring a unique relationship with their environment, to co-exist with nature, this practice is called “satoyama”.

A great place to see the traditional culture of the snow country, as well as local art, is the Matsudai Nohbutai field museum. From Echigo-Yuzawa station it’s approximately a 40-minute train ride, and a 5-minute walk – and well worth the trip.

The museum building itself is a unique piece of architecture, offering both interior and exterior spaces to host events, workshops, and local culinary delicacies.

While you’re spoiled for choices of natural wonders in the area, it’s impossible to ignore Kiyotsu Gorge – around a 25-minute bus ride, and a 30-minute stroll from the Matsudai Nohbutai field museum.

Kiyotsu Gorge is both heralded as a natural monument, and a National Park. It has steep rocky walls, and over eons the river has carved a deep V-shape through the mountains.

There’s a unique carved tunnel, easily accessible by a footpath, with a panorama station at the end, where the natural scenery is mirrored back on a reflecting pool in a beautiful art space. Making it one of the most unique viewing spots anywhere in the world to combine art and nature.

To experience the uniqueness of Japan, both vibrant Tokyo, and the rural splendor of Niigata Prefecture, complement each other perfectly.

For more information about Tokyo and Niigata tourist destinations, please visit HOKURIKU×TOKYO official website www.hokurikuandtokyo.org

Getting to Cape Breton Island is always transportive. It’s a scenic 2½-hour drive from where I live in rural Nova Scotia. Coming from urban Halifax — as many do — there are more distinctive changes, as the city streets give way to rolling hills. 

No matter your departure point, the most striking shift hits you at the end of the mile-long (1.6 kilometre) Canso Causeway, which connects the mainland to Cape Breton. When my view fills with windswept shores and lush forest, that’s the moment I know I’ve arrived.

The classic way to see the best of the island is the Cabot Trail, a two-lane highway that loops around the island’s north and connects its wilderness areas and several of its historic towns. Gaelic people from Scotland arrived in the 1700s, and the area’s Celtic roots are displayed everywhere. Live music always includes fiddle and drum, and the road signs appear in both Gaelic and English — except in the Acadian part of the island, where they’re in French. Traditional and Indigenous Mi’kmaw fishermen live in small villages, some of which butt up against world-class resorts.

But Cape Breton remains a sleepy delight Canadians turn to when they need a break from it all. It still feels rural and remote, though these qualities are mostly preserved in what locals and “come from away” folks offer visitors: quaint cafés and B&Bs, boat tours, and breweries. I discover something new every time, especially in the fall, once the summer rush has abated.

First day of the road trip in Canada – Friday

On my latest road trip to Cape Breton Island, Canada, last October, I began with a visit to Big Spruce Brewing, Nova Scotia’s first organic craft brewery. In 2009, Jeremy and Melanie White, who had honeymooned on the island years earlier, bought a run-down farm near Bras d’Or Lake — online, sight unseen. They found that hops were a good crop for the land, so why not try making beer? I sampled their Kitchen Party Pale Ale, which paired perfectly with deep-fried pepperoni, a regional pub speciality.

Then I drove northwest, following the winding Cabot Trail, then took Route 19 until I reached Inverness, a historic coal-mining village that, with the opening of the Cabot Links Golf Resort in 2011, has found new purpose as a leisure destination. My target: Inverness Beach, known for its abundance of sea glass, pieces of which I squirrelled away in every pocket of my coat.

Overlooking the beach are the luxe private villas at Cabot Cape Breton (doubles from USD 210), designed by famed Halifax architect Omar Gandhi. This golf resort — which includes Cabot Cliffs, the top course in Canada — is perhaps the most spectacular stay on the island. Across the street, in the relaxed brewpub at Route 19 Brewing (entrées USD 14–USD 24), I had the fattest lobster roll I’d ever laid eyes on.

Saturday

On the road trip to Chéticamp, Canada, the Acadian pride becomes palpable as the historical flag appears with increasing frequency, either painted on buildings or hanging from colourful, weather-beaten houses. I headed straight for the Gypsum Mine, a flooded quarry with stark-white walls surrounded by spruces, birches, and firs. A dip in the frigid lake is worth it, as is the steep climb up the side of the quarry (assisted by ropes attached to the rock face) that ends with gorgeous water views.

Mr Chicken (entrées USD 8– USD 11) in Chéticamp is a local fast-food favourite for chicken poutine, but I was eager to eat at L’abri (entrées USD 12–USD 23), which had been booked solid during my previous trip, despite the fact that it had opened just 18 months earlier. L’abri is owned by Basil Doucet and Jaron Felix. After growing tired of their busy careers in Toronto and Halifax, the friends returned to their hometown to start an upscale restaurant riffing on Cape Breton cuisine. I savoured the superb Cajun haddock cakes as soft French music lilted through the air.

It was great fuel for my next excursion: hiking Cape Breton’s Skyline Trail, a five-mile (eight kms) loop through scrubby terrain that leads to a headland boardwalk. After living in Nova Scotia for almost 15 years, I spotted my first moose, looking majestic as it grazed on shrubs.

Supper that night was at the Rusty Anchor Restaurant (entrées USD 11–USD 21), in Pleasant Bay, known for hearty seafood and cheery service. I gorged on Northern Emerald oysters and a juicy bacon cheeseburger. Later I checked into a spacious geodesic dome just down the road at True North Destinations (doubles from USD 160), where I found a perfect post-hike reward in my hot tub overlooking the thrashing Atlantic.

Sunday

From Ingonish Beach, I whipped across the ocean on a whale-watching tour with Keltic Express Zodiac Adventures. I hoped to see Minke whales or the odd humpback, but despite Captain Kinnon MacKinnon’s best efforts to track them down, I saw neither. I was too impressed by the three immense sunfish I did spot to be disappointed. Ingonish is one of the Cabot Trail’s most rewarding stops, with stylish boutiques along the portion of the road that runs through town. At Groovy Goat Farm & Soap Company, I snuggled both bunnies and baby goats, and at Leather Works by Jolene, I bought a buttery-soft, sunshine-yellow purse.

Lunch was a snow-crab sandwich at Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café (sandwiches USD 11–USD 22), a gallery-bakery combo owned by cousins Caitlyn Purcell and Sarabeth Drover, who offer decadent egg sandwiches and orange-scented granola topped with edible flowers, alongside art, crafts, and jewellery. I was sleeping upstairs that night, in one of the café’s three vintage-chic rooms with 1970s-inspired wallpaper (doubles from USD 160). After checking in, I took a long walk along Ingonish Beach, a strip of soft sand edged by piles of pink and grey stones, and basked in views of the historic Keltic Lodge (doubles from USD 200) set on the cliffs above, where I later ordered a Dark & Stormy in the elegant Highland Sitting Room.

Monday

On my last day of this road trip in Canada, I drove to Cape Smokey Provincial Park to walk to the cliff tops and get one more look at the highlands before heading home. On my way out of town, I stopped at the Wreck Cove General Store for a final lobster roll — the best in all of Cape Breton, islanders say. Co-owner Jenn Partland credits the shop’s 40-year-old recipe: a no-nonsense mix of knuckle and claw meat, Miracle Whip, salt, and pepper.

As I took my last bite, I felt a deep sense of appreciation settle in. There’s something immensely satisfying about places that know how to keep things simple and unfussy. And that’s exactly what Cape Breton does best.

Related: These Are The Best Things To Do In New York City For Free

This story first appeared on www.travelandleisure.com

With impossibly lush terroir offering feasts for the table and the eyes, Chiang Mai and it’s surrounds are filled with abundance.

THE HILLS AROUND CHIANG MAI are full of magic,” says Phanuphol ‘Black’ Bulsuwan as he serves me up a multi-course feast that raids the local larder for a selection of vegetables, herbs and foraged goodies.

Fermentation is a specialty at Blackitch Artisan Kitchen, Black’s bijou, 12-seater restaurant in Chiang Mai’s hip Nimmanhaemin neighborhood, where the succession of vegan creations delivered to my table showcase his flair for presenting seasonal produce in fresh, bold flavor combinations. Black isn’t a vegan, nor his restaurant, nor I for that matter, but we both wanted to see what he could whip up using only the bounty of this particular region’s terroir. After all, plant-based is so hot right now.

And the menu is legit culinary alchemy, but that doesn’t surprise me. Black, you see, knows a thing or two about the supernatural. This impish conjuror usually works his spells on a selection of ingredients from around Thailand. His resourcefulness—allied to a cooking philosophy that mines Japan, the Nordic countries, and Thailand for inspiration—has propelled Blackitch to the very pinnacle of Thailand’s restaurant scene. Its creative, sustainable, and seasonal cuisine has earned it an appearance in the Michelin Guide and the 50 Best Discovery list.

In a country of high-profile tourist attractions and destinations, northern Thailand can sometimes feel neglected. It is, after all, something of a land apart. The area’s traditions have been shaped by centuries as part of the Lanna Kingdom, an independent state that was absorbed into Siam in the late 19th century. The north has a unique juju.

As a resident of Bangkok for the best part of the last decade—and a frequent visitor to Thailand for longer than that—I can attest to its rich seam of wizardry. That’s why I’m back here in the hills for another swig of its elixir. First I’ll sample the elevated culture, cuisine, and accommodations that make Chiang Mai an unmissable draw for visitors. I’ll also strike out into the mountains on a 1200cc beast to complete a circuit of the Mae Hong Son Loop, one of Thailand’s most famous road trips. In doing so, I plan to imbibe a heady hit of northern Thailand’s beauty and a renewed insight into its remarkable abundance—something that Chiang Mai scene-makers like Black are eager to shout about.

To be fair, the chef is evangelical about produce from all over Thailand. He’s as effusive about crab sourced from Nakhon Si Thammarat in the south as he is about organic rice from Sisaket where Thailand and Cambodia meet. Still, there’s no mistaking the extra glint in the eyes of this northerner as he waxes lyrical about his backyard.

“We’ve got amazing terroir in northern Thailand,” he says. “Herbs are more fragrant, vegetables are tastier, and the meat tastes like it is supposed to taste.”

As I wrap up, I reflect upon the moreish appeal of the north, a region that never fails to lure me back for extra portions. Some of which I decide to work off by taking the four-or-so kilometers between Nimmanhaemin and 137 Pillars House, my hotel, on foot. The route brings me through Chiang Mai’s walled, moated Old City, the evocative still-beating heart of the city home to centuries-old temple compounds like Wat Phra Singh and Wat Chedi Luang. Eventually, I cross the Ping River and complete the last little stretch through a sleepy residential area to 137 Pillars House.

Chiang Mai’s considerable charms reach peak seduction levels at this leafy, charisma-drenched property, tucked away near the river in a property once owned by Louis Leonowens, son of Anna (of “Anna and the King” fame). Laid out in lush tropical gardens dotted with lily ponds, the colonial-inspired suites take cues from the resort’s centerpiece building: a lovingly restored teak homestead that dates back to the late 1800s when it was the northern HQ of the (British) East Borneo Trading Company. I kick back in my suite, teleport back in time at the suave, wood-paneled Jack Bain’s Bar, and make full use of the hotel’s slimline 25-meter lap pool, dominated by a stunning vertical plant wall.

The following morning, I strike out again to fill up—figuratively and metaphorically—on manna from Lanna. A first stop takes me outside the big city to Ban Don Luang Handicraft Center in Lamphun—Chiang Mai’s diminutive neighbor. Here, members of the Yong ethnic community have established themselves as perhaps Thailand’s most skilled cotton weavers. It’s the perfect place to pick up a fashionable keepsake with a keen sense of place.

I made the short trip back to Chiang Mai. There’s time for another cultural close encounter before lunch at InClay Studio Pottery. Here, in an open-air workspace situated in the garden of his family home near Wat Suan Dok, Jirawong Wongtrangan makes one-of-a-kind dishes, cups and ceramic utensils that — he tells me — take design inspiration from repetition of patterns found in northern nature like leaves, textile motifs and stones. Satisfied clients include some of Thailand’s top resorts. A downhome atmosphere prevails at Jirawong’s studio where pet chickens and roosters roam the tropical grounds and aspiring artisans can receive guidance on the pottery wheel from the man himself.

Ready to replenish, I pay a visit to Khao Soi Mae Sai to get an obligatory (when in the north) fix of khao soi—a dish with Yunnanese-Muslim origins considered to be one of the most potent weapons in Thailand’s culinary arsenal. It was recently named best soup in the world by website TasteAtlas.com, an honor chef Black actually poopoos as he is adamant that khao soi is a curry. I’m presented with subtly spiced coconut-milk broth packed with house-made noodles, and marinated chunks of chicken finished off with a judicious dash of coconut cream and topped with pickled mustard greens. The distinction between soup and curry may matter ecyclopedically, but not to my satisfied belly.

Afterward, I indulge in more terroir talk over cups of drip coffee made with beans sourced from boutique plantations in Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai provinces at Gallery Drip Coffee Chiang Mai. This time I’m chatting with Jarutat ‘Jart’ Snidwongse Na Ayuthaya. A pioneer of Thailand’s craft cheesemaking movement, Jart is another evangelist for northern Thailand’s artisanal potential. He puts the Kingdom’s burgeoning reputation for great cheese down to a combination of the tropical climate and the enlightened leadership of former King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who encouraged dairy farming to provide accessible nutrients to the population.

“I knew it was possible to put Thailand on the world cheese map because there was already a lot of milk here,” he says. “On that basis, my dream started to form.”

His Jartissan brand, which he runs with his wife Ann from their lakeside property in Hang Dong District, Chiang Mai, handcrafts cheeses with different—often radically so—textures and flavor profiles. They utilize local ingredients and Thailand’s unique tropical terroir. “There are a lot of localized microbes in the air in Thailand,” Jart tells me. “Perhaps much more than in temperate and cold countries.”

Get our ultimate guide to another ancient capital, Ayutthaya, where life on the river rolls by slowly, here.

All this talk about the northern countryside and its transformative powers has whetted my appetite for being out in it. And the following day I get my wish as I join Bike Tour Asia, a big name in the region for its big bikes, and embark upon the Mae Hong Son Loop.

With its doughty heft, my BMW bike is both sexy and reassuringly solid—no small thing when faced with the vagaries of the loop’s twisty highways (it is estimated to encompass around 2,000 curves in total).

As we clear the interminable outskirts of Chiang Mai, the open road is working its magic. I give the beast some gas and feel the warm breeze whistling by my ears. The tarmac skirts dramatic limestone pinnacles and valleys that fall away from the edge of the road. It’s an opportunity to luxuriate in northern Thailand’s sheer beauty and the mellow glow it engenders, which is no minor endorsement in these stressful times.

Small details endure. Along the way, we clean out a stall selling smoky gai yang (grilled chicken) at an obscure junction between Mae Hong Son and Khun Yuam, take a dip in a natural pool at Mae Ya Waterfall in Doi Inthanon National Park, and raise our arms like conquering heroes each time we pass through the ornate arches that mark the threshold of even the most one-horse villages.

Other highlights of the loop include a stop at Pang Ma Kluay, a small village surrounded by countryside famous for its foraging potential. Here chefs such as Black come to source goodies, including wild bitter aubergines, edible freshwater algae, shoots, herbs leaves, roots, and the tender cores of banana palms. Another clue to the area’s gastronomic abundance lies in the organic Arabica coffee plantations skirting Baan Huay Hom near Mae Hong Son.

Most uplifting, though, is the simple joy of being on the move. Motorbikes and the open road have long been a symbol of freedom—the preserve of the independent-minded adventurer, the leather-clad rebel. And it’s impossible to deny the exhilarating sense of liberty that comes with being in tune with your surroundings on near-deserted highways in one of the most beautiful countries on the planet.

The end of the road comes as both a relief and a disappointment. Prolonged exposure to a motorbike saddle may wreak havoc on the hindquarters, but the journey itself is anything but a pain in the rear. Even still, I’m delighted to put my head down under a blanket of stars at Bubble Sky Glamping. Glamping is a rising trend among young Thais. And there are numerous unique places to sleep close to nature near Chiang Mai. At Bubble Sky, comfortable king-size beds are arranged on wooden platforms under clear bubble domes. It’s a little twee. I half expect Tinkerbell to show up in the middle of the night. Yet there’s no denying the fairytale charm of the place, especially when the mist rolls in and it feels like I’m wading through clouds.

Back in Chiang Mai, I’ve got just enough time to pull one last rabbit out of the hat: a white one. If Peter Pan vibes are strong at Bubble Sky, this Old City speakeasy leans more towards Alice in Wonderland, with a host of playful touches evoking Lewis Carroll’s fantasy classic. After locating the well-hidden entrance, I ascend two flights of rickety stairs, dodge a creepy doll or two, and enter a tiny bar space market with a rabbit’s head on the door. My reward: a classic Negroni made with small batch gin from Chiang Mai’s Edelbrand distillery. It’s a strong finale to another successful Lanna odyssey and one last fix of potent northern magic for the road.

The Details

STAY

137 Pillars House Chiang Mai’s tranquil location and lush tropical landscape combined with the spectacular sites of Chiang Mai create the perfect backdrop for this reinvigorating getaway, with stunning vistas, lush jungles and refreshing waterfalls. Guests will be immersed in a peaceful sanctuary for the senses. 137pillarschiangmai.com; doubles from US$385.

Secret Thailand Exclusive Offer: 137 Pillars “Nature and Nurture Wellbeing Retreat” — a 4-day / 3-night wellness retreat including a soothing selection of wellness therapies and nature-immersive activities. Rates start from THB 66,000 for single occupancy. 

Bubble Sky Glamping Chiang Mai fb.com/bubbleskyglampingchiangmai; tents from US$120.

EAT+DRINK

Blackitch Artisan (Kitchenblackitch.com; meal for two US$122.)

Khao Soi Mae Sai Ratchaphuek Road; +66 53 213 284; meal for two US$5.

Gallery Drip Coffee fb.com/gallerydripcmi.

Jartisann Cheeserie fb.com/jartisanncheeserie; +66 8 0546 3615.

White Rabbit menu-thewhiterabbit.carrd.co; 179/1 Phrapokklao Rd. 2F; +66 64 260 2669; cocktails from Bt350.

DO

Bike Tour Asia biketourasia.com; self-guided tours from US$330 per day, scheduled tours through northern Thailand from US$3,000 for eight days, or work with them to create a custom trip.

Ban Don Luang Handicraft Center Sixteen kilometers south of Lamphun town via Road No. 1032; call TAT Chiang Mai office for information +66 53 248 604.

In Clay Pottery Studio inclaystudio.com; handbuilding and throwing courses from Bt990 or experienced potters can book studio time on your own.

Article Sponsored by Tourism Authority of Thailand.

One of the most luxurious trains in the world, Seven Stars Kyushu is getting an upgrade in time for your autumn trip to Japan. All aboard!

JAPAN’S NEW PLAN to test tourism is officially underway, so now may be the right time to start looking into your luxurious return to Japan by rail. And your overnight train ride through one of Japan’s most scenic islands is about to get an upgrade.

In April, Seven Stars, the luxury sleeper car experience by Kyushu Railway Co., announced plans to upgrade its already spectacular train. The new-and-improved train will hit the railroad in October 2022. It currently operates on the southern Japanese island of Kyushu.

The railway company will refurbish its luxury sleeper service, including reducing the number of guests on board at one time to ensure improved service for passengers. The upgrade plan, the company shared in a statement, will reduce the number of guest rooms from 14 to 10, and will now set the maximum capacity to 20 passengers per ride.

Beyond reducing the number of guest rooms, Seven Stars will also get a new tea room and salon so guests can spread out even more on the train.

According to Japan News, this is the first refurbishment for the Seven Stars train since its introduction to service in 2013. Beyond the new tea room, the train’s dining area, which was housed in the first and second cars, will now be found in just the first car. There, guests will dine on seasonal fare prepared by the train’s master chefs. The second car will also be transformed into a gorgeous salon, allowing guests to move smoothly between dinner and drinks. The third car, which was previously one of the passenger cabins, will now feature a lounge bar alongside a premium shop stocked with crafts and goods sourced from around Kyushu.

The train’s interiors harken back to a slower, more magical time in travel thanks to its use of rich, dark woods, luxurious fabrics, and soft lighting that seems to sway with the train’s subtle movements. Its massive picture windows allow guests to take in the epic views from every single seat. Or, guests can choose to retire to their rooms, which come with the same throwback styling as the rest of the train but include the modern amenity of a private bathroom.

Seven Stars in Kyushu offers one-, two-, three- and four-night packages. Following the completion of the update, rates will start at US$5,085 (¥650,000) per passenger for a one-night journey.

Images courtesy of Seven Stars Kyushu.