Singapore’s pioneering celebrity chef Justin Quek has opened an all-day cafe and bar on Orchard Road serving his signature French-Asian cuisine.

Located on the fourth floor of Tang Plaza, Justin Gastro Cafe-Bar offers brunch items, Asian- and French-style sharing plates, dim sum, bar snacks, and dessert. “It’s casual, but atas (elevated),” Quek said.

The drinks range from a selection of Justin Quek-labelled wines to classic-style cocktails. The cafe is also Vittoria Coffee’s first flagship store in Singapore and has coffee-based beverages including caffeinated cocktails.

This is Quek’s latest venue after opening three restaurants in Marina Bay Sands, all of which have now closed. The French-trained chef was also part of the opening team of fine dining restaurant, Les Amis, and has launched eateries in Taipei and Shanghai.

What to expect at Justin Gastro Cafe-Bar in Orchard

At Justin Gastro Cafe-Bar, morning diners have access to a brunch menu heavy with eggs. A highlight was the wild mushroom and poached egg Parmentier (SGD 28++/USD 20++), which had salty Iberico pork cubes and smoothly mashed potato. Another option is scrambled eggs and toasted sourdough, which can be topped with caviar and champagne foam (SGD 40++/USD 29++).

Among the appetisers, poached oysters (SGD 14++/USD 10++ for two) stood out with its dressing of superior soy sauce, chives, and garlic, reminiscent of Cantonese-style steamed fish. Deep-fried mantou was filled with Iberico pork char siu, pickles, shredded lettuce, and coriander, and tasted like a wonderfully greasy burger.

The mains included braised pig trotters “Perigordine” (SGD 42++/USD 30++), rich with sautéed duck foie gras and meaty mushrooms, and a slick fresh crabmeat capellini (SGD 30++/USD 22++), said to be a favourite of Singapore’s late Prime Minister, Lee Kuan Yew. For his fried rice (SGD 23++/USD 16++), Quek added Korean ikan bilis, which he said is stronger in flavour, complemented by a bright sambal.

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Justin Gastro Cafe-Bar recommends ordering hot desserts ahead of time as they take 20 minutes to prepare, and the apple tart (SGD 40++/USD 29++) is a fine option. Baked in a crepe pan and good for up to six people, it held delicately thin slices of the fruit and toasted almond, with caramelised layers of salted gula Java sauce. For a cold dish, paper-thin pineapple carpaccio is perked up by refreshing lime zest and sorbet.

To drink, an elegantly fruity riesling kabinett by Rheingau winery Schloss Vollrads paired well with many dishes, from the oysters to the capellini. Then the Justin Signature Coffee offered much more than just a pick-me-up: cold brew served in a goblet with vanilla cream and salted gula Java ice cream, which drank like a generously-loaded affogato.

310 Orchard Road, Tang Plaza, Level 4, TANGS @ Tang Plaza, Singapore, 238864

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This story first appeared here.

(Hero and featured images credit: Justin Quek)

Related: 8 Best Old-School Pandan Waffles In Singapore To Snack On Today

Four-hands collaborations between chefs have taken off in the dining scene, especially now that the borders are fully open.

Sometimes the chefs do similar cuisines or, as in the case of Chaat x Mora, sometimes it requires them to interestingly pit subtle tastes against pungent spices.

A Review of Chaat x Mora

Art Basel week in Hong Kong was also the scene of Rosewood Hong Kong’s fourth-anniversary celebrations which saw all their dining establishments holding special chef collaborations and special activities with both local and overseas talents.

So when two of my favourite restaurants in the city announced a four-hands collaboration, I definitely didn’t think twice before saying yes. This wasn’t the first time that chef Manav Tuli has worked with a Chinese chef. Last year, chef Tuli did a highly successful four-hands with chef Adam Wong of the three-star Michelin Forum Restaurant with chef Wong matching the strong Indian flavours with his more traditional Chinese fare.

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Mora, on the other hand, is dedicated fully to soy in all its different forms which are often defined by very subtle flavours. Added to that equation, of course, is chef Vicky Lau, also the owner of the two-star Michelin TATE Dining Room, who has always been known for her refined precision. So, I knew I was in for an interesting experience.

The soy game started strong with the amuse-bouche of tofu soya croquette and soya jackfruit tart. The tofu in the croquette had the lovely same texture as the Indian cottage cheese one would find in the palak paneer. The jackfruit tart was a new take on Chaat’s usual jackfruit samosa, this time on a soya shell instead.

Mora’s popular cold udon noodles took on an excellent masala kick which added another layer to its already rich flavours of soy milk, sakura shrimp and pickled vegetables. I found the tandoor flavours of the fermented tofu marinated tandoori octopus a bit muted, however.

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The chingri malai seafood soup, which has become a firm favourite at Chaat since it was introduced last year, definitely benefitted from the soy chips which absorbed the turmeric and coconut flavours while adding a soft crunch.

One of my highlights was the grilled seabass nilgiri korma. By all appearances, the course looked like any seared fish in what might be sauce verte; it’s only when you take your first bite that you can feel the subtle spices dance on your tongue.

No Indian meal is complete without a proper curry – ours was a Hyderabadi chicken accompanied by soya tofu kulchette and a soya champ ki biryani – before ending with the mango coconut mousse and some super smooth, super rich chocolate bonbons. And, we can’t forget the chai masala, this time made with soy milk from Mora’s sister company Añ.

Cuisine

Soy and Spice (French Chinese/Indian)

We Loved

Masala spiced udon noodles

Chingri malai seafood soup

Grilled seabass nilgiri korma

Spiced chocolate bonbon

The Vibe

I’ve always liked that Chaat seems to have a corner for every kind of occasion; you can sit near the bar for a more casual (and quieter) atmosphere. In more pleasant weather, you can also choose to sit outside and enjoy the stunning view of the harbour. The main dining room is also rather cheerful with its wall murals and comfortable seating as well as a view of parts of the kitchen.

Quick Notes  

Price for two: 

USD 3,160

Address:

5/F Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside,

18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel. 3891 8732

Timings:

12:30 pm – 4 pm; 5:30 pm – 11 pm

This story first appeared here.

Related: Things To Do In Hong Kong To Make It A Memorable Trip

The Italian population is going to have a field day with this one—The Pizza Company just launched a new mango pizza in Thailand. Whatever the opposite of “that’s amore” is, this is it.

It’s like the guy who invented pineapples on pizza came to Thailand, looked around, and decided that the culinary world has had a long enough time of peace. The newly debuted pizza consists of—you guessed it—an abundance of mangoes, as well as a drizzling of coconut cream sauce, on top of a thin-crust pizza.

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We tried The Pizza Company’s new mango pizza

Through their social media, The Pizza Company describes this creation as “new and unique,” highlighting the combo of the “freshness of the mango, along with the scent of coconut cream sauce.”

Those interested to try are also entitled to their buy-one-get-one deal and will be welcome to properly savour this unique sensation with two whole mango pizzas for just THB 279 (USD 8.14).

The Pizza Company’s mango pizza: A review

We sent one of our bravest writers into the field to actually try this mango pizza. Below are his unedited comments.

Presentation: “So you have a thin crust pizza, there are pieces of mangoes on top with some yellow sauce and oddly enough, croutons? You get what you paid for, I suppose. It doesn’t look the worst, but you can already imagine how this is going to go.”

Taste: “It isn’t the worst thing I’ve ever put in my mouth, but definitely isn’t the best thing in the world, either. Everything’s sweet and feels like a dessert, which makes the whole pizza feel very guilty—even more than a usual pizza. Every bite I take makes me question why I ordered this instead of literally anything else in the restaurant. I also don’t feel like the croutons help with anything. They’re just there.”

Texture: “Soft textures are not new for pizza toppings anyway, so the mango and pizza crust combo isn’t as bad as I thought. The croutons give a crunchy contrast to everything else, but also something that you wouldn’t miss if it wasn’t there.”

Verdict: “I wish it weren’t a pizza. I wish it were like a dessert wrap filled with mangoes, rather than a whole pizza. That would make more sense, I think. A lot of questions popped up as I was eating. Overall, I managed to finish a whole slice, and that’s an accomplishment. For a summer-themed pizza, it reminded me of taking a dip in the ocean—but like in the movie Jaws. It’s a very solid four-point one.”

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This story first appeared here.

[Hero and featured image credit: The Pizza Company 1112/Facebook]

Related: Have A Look At The Best Pad Thai Recipe By Asia’s Best Restaurant Chef

Mod-Asian cuisine isn’t new – in fact, it’s been done to death, and people often find themselves returning to traditional renditions of their favourite dishes.

Chef Marvas Ng, however, has managed to use classic French techniques to not change, but refine Chinese cuisine to perfection, and this is clearly demonstrated in Path’s new Mod-Asian dinner prix fixe menus for 2023.

Ng only launched his inaugural restaurant in partnership with 1855 F&B last year, but the restaurant has already impressed diners by fleshing out the essence of East Asian flavours through intricate French culinary techniques.

On our previous visit, diners got to devise their culinary path for dinner via an a la carte concept. Now, Chef Marvas has introduced an entirely new dinner format via a six-course and eight-course menu, heralding the next chapter of Path restaurant.

Named Voyage and Expedition, the respective six-course and eight-course menus invoke Chef Marvas’ career milestones over the past year. This includes winning two gold medals from his participation in the Culinary World Cup 2022 as part of the Singapore team.

Boundless creativity can be seen and tasted in the dishes, which are sumptuously elegant, yet reassuringly familiar and heart-warming. There are no contrived ideas; every culinary approach has its significance.

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New dinner prix fixe menus at Path restaurant

Hakka Braised Pork Belly with Preserved Vegetables is one of the most iconic dishes in Chinese cuisine. Path restaurant assumes the form of the Pork Trotter Crepinette. Presented as a golden sphere surrounded by a savoury sauce reduction and topped with micro greens, this dish highlights a classic French technique where caul fat wraps the pork and is pan-fried afterwards. This process also reminds Chef Marvan of making the quintessential Teochew dish hei zhor (or crispy prawn roll). Thus, he tapped into those memories when conceptualising this creation.

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Mei cai (or Hakka Preserved Vegetables) can be tart-tasting, but Chef Marvan worked his deft culinary skills to perfectly infuse the unique flavour into the pork crepinette as a sauce reduced together with ginger, garlic, shallots, light soy and premium white balsamic vinegar.

Elsewhere, the wrapped minced pork trotters undergo a braised ritual alongside herbs like ginger, garlic, peppercorns and angelica. This method ensures an ideal balance between the collagen-rich pork cut and the caul fat used to wrap it. Expect layered textures and flavours from the crispy yet sticky-tender crepinette when paired with the thick, savoury sauce.

All ingredients complement each other harmoniously at Path restaurant

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Another menu highlight is the exquisite Shanghainese Hairy Crab Roe. This delicacy is also a tribute to Chef Marvas’s two favourite food memories – the buttery hairy crab roe and the savoury version of beancurd. At first glance, this dish may seem like a dead ringer for chawanmushi. But the pairing of both sweet-saltiness of the roe and smooth curd are truly compatible.

Completed by a thin layer of chilli oil, each ingredient brings different textures and taste profiles to offer tender and rich flavours on the palate. The accompanying crusty mini-baguette makes polishing the dish an effortless feat.

A harmonious medley of surf and turf happens in the Oriental Bouillabaisse. Based on two housemade stocks – one made of chicken and prawn, another based on fish – this comforting dish offers the deep and rich briny flavours of fresh seafood.

A ‘money bag’ companion – tofu skin stuffed with sea cucumber innards, shrimp, bamboo shoots, and Beijing cabbage – provides a fitting bite to the savoury broth. The tender BBQ South African Abalone manages to marry both the east and the west, with a rice-like risoni under the shellfish which soaks up the luscious chicken jus.

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Sweet dreams are made of these

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Rounding up the meal is the sweet and creamy Mogolian Milk Curd. Assembled with Valrhona Ivoire, Greek Yogurt, and blueberries, each spoonful is an explosion of sweet and sour notes. A special mention must go to the unique Petit Fours, which unlike other restaurants aren’t just an afterthought. They evoke familiar Asian candied treats, with flavours such as the Red Date Sorbet (chng tng), Lotus Seed Madaleine (an airy mooncake), Citrus Bonbon (mandarin orange chiffon cake), and Hawtorn Gummies (hawthorn flakes). A trip back to the good ol’ days indeed. But Chef Marvan’s creations are certainly contemporary and modern.

A wine pairing of a flight of three or five is also available with the dinner prix fixe menus. Exceptional wines curated from parent company 1855 F&B, like the fruity Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2018 and Lethbridge 2020 Pinot Noir, enhance both Voyage and Expedition menus.

For lunch, a prix fixe menu titled ‘Gourmet Lunch’ and a curated a-la-carte lunch menu are available. While a few dishes also appear from the dinner menu, some items (BBQ Brisbane Quail and Braised Ratte Potato with black trumpet mushrooms) remain exclusive to the earlier meal.

Final thoughts in a gif

(All images credit: Path)

The path is located at 12 Marina Boulevard, Tower 3, #01-05/06, Marina Bay Financial Centre, Singapore 018982. Lunch is served from Mondays to Fridays, 11:30 am to 2 pm. Dinner is served from Mondays to Saturdays, 6 pm to 9 pm.

This story first appeared here.

Hero and feature image credits: Path Restaurant

Related: Must-Visit Top Cafes & Restaurants In Singapore Right Now

With new omakase restaurants opening almost every month, there is no doubt that Japanese cuisine is one of the most popular dining choices in Hong Kong. Kappou Mu, located in Tsim Sha Tsui’s latest dining hotspot H Zentre, is one of the newest additions to the scene.

A Review of Kappou Mu 

It’s safe to say that sushi omakase is the most commonly found Japanese cuisine in Hong Kong. Nothing beats the daily catches, freshly sliced and served. Of the cooked variety, kaiseki and kappo cuisine are the top contenders.

The difference between the two is that kaiseki is usually cooked inside the kitchens and served to guests on a tray while kappo chefs work behind an open counter and interact more with guests. At Kappou Mu, all 14 guests seated in the 1,000 sq ft space, get equal opportunities to have closer interaction with the chefs.

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The word “kappo” means “to cut and to cook” and like all good Japanese restaurants, Kappou Mu prides itself on the freshest seasonal ingredients and prefers to let its natural flavours do the talking, which means not relying on heavy garnishes.

The restaurant adheres to the five guiding principles of Japanese cuisine which incorporates the five key cooking methods (simmered, steamed, grilled/roasted, fried and raw), five colours (red, green, yellow, white and black) and the five tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami or savoury).

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Our spring menu, which lasts until April, was inspired by the Sakura season in Japan and presented with a floral flourish. There’s no sushi on the menu; to have that you have to visit Kappou Mu’s sister restaurant Sushi Rin on the same floor of the mall.

We got off to a substantial start with the starters of red prawn, firefly squid and mackerel, with two pieces of everything. This was followed by a Japanese white fish sashimi, one of three raw fish courses (these change daily),  followed by geoduck sashimi, served two ways – lightly seared and raw. The raw geoduck was meaty, springy and sweet.

The bander grouper fish soup with radish and Takano beans was superbly light but flavourful, with the sweetness of the fish fully imbued into the broth. I wasn’t particularly impressed by the lobster tempura; the batter was a little thick and could have done with a bit more crunch.

The Japanese hairy crab, served with a generous spoon of crab roe, was honey sweet, but the outstanding dish was the Hokkaido Aka and Shiro sea urchin served in a martini glass and with the chef adding a generous sprinkle of sea salt table side. It’s a shame the glass was opaque though, as it would have been nice to see inside while the salt was added.

The Emishi abalone served on a bed of taro and the liver sauce was full of umami; the abalone was tender and the taro was enticingly crumbly. The Hokkaido Tokachi wagyu beef was cooked to a beautiful light pink but was a little bland. An extra garnish or secret ingredient could do well to elevate the taste. The kamameshi rice with cherry salmon and salmon roe made up for it with beautiful layers and umami.

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There’s a good selection of excellent handpicked sake, including N by Hidetoshi Nagata, to go with the 15-course dinner. We had the Edo Kaijo Junmai Daiginjo Genshu Yamadanishiki Sake (HKD 430 or USD 54) but the highlight for me was the housemade plum wine (HKD 88 or USD 11) which was gloriously rich and deep, so good I couldn’t say no to a refill.

Cuisine

Japanese kappo

We Loved

Japanese hairy crab

Hokkaido sea urchin sashimi

Emishi abalone

Kamameshi rice with cherry salmon and salmon roe

The Vibe

The 1,000 sq ft premises is spacious, allowing for a large counter space that seats 14 very comfortably. The warm dim lighting and the bamboo and wooden décor exude Zen-ness and are perfect for a cosy romantic dinner for two, or small groups. The restaurant has a sister bar, Room 3, next door (which shares the same entrance) where you can enjoy a drink or two before or after dinner.

Quick Notes  

Price for two: 

HKD 1,560 or USD 198 for lunch (nine courses)

HKD 4,360 or USD 555 for dinner (15 courses)

 Address:

 Shop UG01-03, UG/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Tel. 6617 6602

Opening Hours:

Mon-Sun 12 pm-3 pm, 6 pm-10 pm

The story first appeared here.

Hero and feature image credits: Kappou Mu

Related: Over-rated Places In Hong Kong And Where To Go Instead

Recently reopened under the exclusive ownership of Chefs Alessandro Angelini and Luca De Berardinis, LucAle (a portmanteau of both chefs’ first names) is reminiscent of the small eateries one would find tucked away in the crevices of a coastal Italian town, and today, we will review it for you.

The venue’s recently renovated interior and revamped seafood-driven menu must have been effective so far, as the place was already buzzing with diners when we entered at 7 pm.  

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A Review of LucAle

The meal began with a light offering of seafood. We started with a dish of baby cuttlefish with pistachio cream, quinoa, and toasted almonds. This was followed by Sicilian fresh tuna with avocado cream, soy sauce, and Amalfi lemon dressing, a fresh and pleasant dish where the tuna was the star. Up next was a seabass tartare tucked into hollowed artichoke hearts topped by bell pepper cream and basil oil, a well-balanced dish between two creamy main ingredients. 

The handmade pasta dishes which came next were each stellar in their own way, but the standouts were the green cappelletti filled with seabass, topped with Sorrento lemon foam and caviar sauce; shrimps ravioli with pan-fried shrimps, porcini mushrooms and artichokes; and finally the hand cut tagliolini pasta with lobster, prawns, and scallop ragout in a simple but fragrant tomato and basil sauce cooked in paper and unwrapped tableside.  

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For our secondi, Chefs Angelini and De Berardinis presented us with a melt-in-the-mouth, 24-hour slow-cooked beef cheek, with celery root cream and caramelised kumquat. This was followed by Italian sea bass accompanied by slow-cooked porcini mushrooms and what the menu described as an oriental arrabbiata sauce. To Google, thou needeth not: arrabbiata is a spicy tomato sauce — so this is a spicy tomato sauce, but Asian (we haven’t found out how, exactly.) Though both components were faultless, the mushrooms outshone the sea bass as they held a ton of flavour from the slow cooker. We finished with a perfectly cooked coffee-crusted pork tenderloin with mustard, pan-fried duck liver, and caramelised shallot — a dish that feels both subtle and indulgent all at once. 

Dessert held a few surprises: the venue’s signature tiramisu came served almost like a trifle, topped with a crunchy, caramelised coffee lattice that was satisfying to break and consume in equal parts. There was an item simply dubbed “variation of sweet corn” which was an interesting take: it was slightly sweet and we appreciated the unexpectedness of the dish. Give this a try if you’re partial to corn or light, creamy desserts. Our favourite of the desserts was the tropical egg: a tart, light passionfruit-forward jelly encased in a fruity chocolate shell, an uplifting end to an indulgent meal.  

Cuisine 

Italian  

We Loved  

Sicilian Fresh Tuna Avocado Cream, Soy Sauce and Amalfi Lemon Dressing 

Green Cappelletti filled with Seabass with Sorrento Lemon Foam and Caviar sauce 15GR 

24-hour slow cooked Beef Cheek with Celery Root cream and caramelised Kumquat 

Hand Cut Tagliolini Pasta with Lobster, Prawns and Scallop ragout, fresh tomato and basil in a paper box 

The Vibe 

LucAle does not subscribe to the dark and moody lighting preferred by neighbourhood haunts of similar ilk. Instead, the restaurant is brightly lit, and the music wasn’t the first sound to reach our ears. You could see and hear everybody sitting at the dinner table, and there is no doubt as to the quality of food on your dish. The restaurant is clearly a place to talk and eat; more akin to a casual eatery atmosphere but with better décor and tableware. 

Quick Notes  

Price for two: 

From HKD 2,150  (USD 274 – at the time of writing)

Address: 

Shop A, 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun 

Opening Hours:  

Tuesday to Friday, 6 pm—12 am 

Saturday to Sunday, 12 pm—3 pm / 6 pm—12 am 

Closed Mondays 

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This story first appeared here.

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Hybrid gastronomy isn’t a foreign concept today. There’s Chuka Ryori (Japanese-Chinese), Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) and Peranakan (which combines Chinese, Malay, Javanese, and South Indian influences), all of which see uniquely different cultures fuse to create an entirely new palette of flavours. But only the best foodies will know of Chifa. Now, you can taste this uncommon fusion cuisine at Chifa! in Resorts World Sentosa (RWS) Singapore.

The term ‘chifa’ is derived from a local Peruvian transliteration of the Chinese phrase ‘Chi fan’ (吃饭) and originated from the first generation of Chinese immigrants when they created dishes comprising Chinese – or more specifically, Cantonese – flavours using  Peruvian ingredients. The cuisine was later further adapted by descendants of Chinese who were born in Peru, also known as Tusan.

Peruvian cuisine is a rarity in Singapore, much less Peruvian-Chinese cuisine. However, RWS has introduced and showcased this unique culinary style to Singapore and the region via the recently opened Chifa!

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When East meets West

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Chifa! is unmissable when you step onto the grounds of RWS. Its colourful décor takes inspiration from classic Chinese courtyard architecture and the vibrant surroundings of Barrio Chino (equivalent to Chinatown), Peru.

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Inside features four distinct dining areas, including three private dining rooms and a lively bar. Showcasing backdrops of iconic Peruvian rainbow mountains and vivid textiles, the interior is completed with neon lights, brick walls, stone flooring, and glazed roof tiles.

Overall, Chifa!’s visual impact also reflects the melting pot of Peru’s diverse cultures and landscapes, embracing Peruvian and Chinese heritage.

Banquet-worthy spread with Chifa!’s fresh yet familiar fusion fare

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Chifa!’s signature dishes definitely look familiar initially, but they come with a twist. For a start, the Yellowfin Tuna Tamarind Ceviche elevates a classic Peruvian dish by combining the citric tamarind ‘Leche de Tigre’ (tiger’s milk) marinade with recognisable Chinese flavours like daikon and kyuri.

Another standout fusion dish is the Bijao Wrapped Fish and ‘Sudado’, an alternate version of a Chifa delicacy. Chifa!’s take features a whole fish roasted in a wrapped banana leaf to acquire its fragrance, before being topped with tangy Tomato Chalaca Salsa. The ‘Sudado’ sauce, made of Aji chilli and fermented corn juice, adds a zesty punch to this protein main.

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Rice is a staple in Chinese cuisine, so it came as no surprise that fried rice was part of this menu. Wok Fried Seafood XO Aeropuerto is the modern take on the chifa equivalent dish enjoyed by Peruvians. Chifa!’s rendition mixes nutritious quinoa and aromatic jasmine rice with seafood and seasonal vegetables, all sautéed in a flavourful XO sauce with plenty of wok-hei.

Other highlights include the Sichuan-Peru Potatoes (julienned Peruvian potatoes seasoned with Sichuan pepper), and for dessert, the Purple ‘Chicken Bebe’ Man Tao (Peruvian sweet corn ice cream in Purple Bao). A dim sum menu is also available, offering exquisite chifa-style bites that are perfect for weekend afternoons.

Raise a Pisco-based cocktail at Chifa!

You can’t go without a glass of Pisco when having a chifa meal. Signature drinks include the Chicano de China – an interpretation of the classic Pisco-ginger ale combination commonly had by Peruvians – which contains Pisco Macchu, maracuya (passion fruit), agave nectar and ginger ale.

Lastly, follow up with a refreshing LAGUNA 69 – named after and inspired by the beautiful turquoise colour lake near Huaraz in Peru. Down this refreshing concoction made of Havana three years, blue curacao, pineapple and fresh lime juice with agave nectar.

Chifa! is located at 8 Sentosa Gateway, Ave8, Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore 098269.

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This story first appeared here.

Hero and feature image credits: Resorts World Sentosa

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In our review of Underdog Inn – the latest concept by the people behind Low Tide and Sago House – house pickles, green chilli slaw, and other sharp elements contrast against the rich meats.

Underdog Inn review

The best thing I ate at Underdog Inn was not the plump green lip mussels, which slid around in herb oil and a potently creamy whey butter sauce. Neither was it the pomfret, which was aged for four days, basted in brown butter, and brightened by lemon and capers.

It was simply the house pickles, a garden of mushroom, cauliflower, cucumber, carrot, cabbage, red pepper, celery, and radish, all chopped, sliced, slivered, and diced, and cured for up to four months, said the executive chef Pete Smit. Like all good relishes, they were crunchy, tart, and a welcome jolt from Underdog Inn‘s liberally salted food. If Smit decides to start his own brand, Pete’s Pickles just rolls off the tongue.

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Many things at the Amoy Street restaurant thrive on contradictions. It looks like a gritty tavern in a bunker, but the booths are plushly leathered and the napkins are thick. There is graffiti on the wall, but the crowd was mainly corporate types. Owner Jay Gray, normally wild-haired with tattoos spilling out beneath a graphic tee, wore a shirt and tamed his mane into a neat bun.

The theme also runs throughout Smit’s food. Crisp and bitter baby romaine lettuce leaves become a vehicle for buttery duck liver parfait. Pig’s head crumpet, which resembles a pulled pork croquette, is perked up by a luscious apple sauce. Sweet heirloom tomatoes peek around brittle sourdough slices, earthy Pont-l’Eveque cheese, and briny anchovy chunks.

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Other dishes lack contrast. Pork scratching and bone marrow mash cried out for some acid. Sourdough with pork lard overpowered a lovely lamb tartare with shavings of cured egg yolk. The perfectly caramelised smoked beef neck was let down by a heavy hand of salt. Thankfully, it came with a cutting green chilli slaw, backed by the funk of fish sauce.

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To drink, Underdog Inn has 18 taps, 12 dedicated to cocktails. Untitled (Modern Times) slips peach and plum flavours over a velvety texture, while God vs Law softens smoky mezcal with tangy passionfruit. When mixed with oloroso sherry and blackberry, Please Don’t C(h)ry becomes almost wine-like. An old hip-hop comic serves as the drinks menu – if you can read it in the dim light.

Underdog Inn is located at 115 Amoy St, #01-03, Singapore 069935. Book here.

This story first appeared here.

Hero and feature images credit: Underdog Inn

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Discover Authentic Italian Flavors with Michelin-Starred Chef Mauro Colagreco at Capella Singapore’s Fiamma.

Keeping up the promise of the summer launch, Capella Singapore’s new restaurant Fiamma continues to push the standards of high-quality service and culinary excellence in Singapore with this exceptional Italian eatery’s Fall Menu.

Dedicated to traditional Italian fare, Fiamma, under triple Michelin-starred Chef Mauro Colagreco’s direction, is a foodie’s dream come true. The food is a sampling of the chef’s considered palate, while the cozy atmosphere makes guests feel instantly at ease.

Fiamma is designed with retro, stylish touches, and divided into a Den, Oven Salon, Kitchen Chamber, Living Room, Terrace, and Private Table, providing gorgeous backdrops to every meal.

Auspicious Beginnings

The food is a riot of Italian tastes with robust flavors balanced by delicate culinary touches.

The antipasto dish Burrata E Funghi Marinati brings together chunks of grilled red kuri squash with luxurious butternut squash puree adorned with walnuts and marinated chanterelles atop a quivering burrata. It’s rich, deep and only takes the lightest prod from your fork to burst the delicate cheese to find the stracciatella within.

Another autumnal favorite of Chef Colagreco and his family is Polpette. Inspired by his grandmother’s recipe, Polpette is a light but sensational meatball dish made from beef, veal and pork, finished with a subtly spiced cherry tomato sauce.

Pizza People

If you’re craving pizza, Fiamma has you covered. Chef Colagreco’s team hand kneads the fermented dough, allowing it to fully rest before adding toppings and sliding it with a flourish into the wood-fired oven.

The result is some of the best takes on pizza in Singapore. From Diavola, the classic mix of salami picante balanced by mozzarella and pecorino cheeses, to Genovese, with its cheese-slathered crust and fresh homemade pesto, Fiamma is a must for pizza lovers.

For Secondi, guests have their choice of fish and seafood dishes, including the Pescato del Giorno, or fresh fish of the day, prepared Ligurian-style alongside crispy fresh veggies and a zesty lemon butter sauce.

Dripping with Flavor

Omnivores looking for something to sink their teeth into will be more than satisfied with Fiamma’s Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Dripping with flavor, this tender hunk of beef reaches perfection when placed on the grill to absorb wafts of piquant woodfire smoke.

Finishing off the menu are Fiamma’s Dolce selections. Complete your culinary journey through Italy with airy méringue, topped with reflective gold flakes, fresh fruit, and ice cream or creamy Tiramisu, an elevated take on the classic recipe thanks to the addition of amaretto.

No matter which room you choose, or which dishes catch your eye, guests won’t go wrong at Capella Singapore’s indulgent Italian offering.

capellahotels.com/en/capella-singapore/dining/fiamma

Article sponsored by Capella Singapore.
All Images Credit: Courtesy of Capella Singapore.

Hello, happy cattle! We meet Michelin-starred Japanese chef Junichi Yoshida at Koki, his new teppanyaki restaurant in Capella Hanoi.

ISHIGAKI IS HOME to one of the world’s finest cuts of meat that comes from what I now think must be some of the world’s happiest cattle. And the new, truly delightful Japanese restaurant at Capella Hanoi is now their second home. 

I had to search online to find out where Ishigaki was before I dined with the man who put the small Japanese island on the culinary map. To my surprise, I discovered it’s less than 320 kilometers east of Taiwan’s capital, Taipei. Ishigaki is the second largest island and the commercial hub of the small Yaeyama group of islands some 400 kilometers southwest of Okinawa – and 1,900 kilometers from Tokyo.

Meaning: It’s about as far south in Japan as it gets, on the fringes of the North Pacific Ocean. Photos on Okinawa’s official travel website show the island ringed by stunning turquoise coral quays that bug-eyed tourists can view in glass-bottomed boats. This isn’t exactly ranch country. It’s nowhere you’d expect reef and beef.

“Mr. Kitauchi himself, the owner of the farm, feeds the cows by hand,” chef Junichi Yoshida tells me via an interpreter the day before the grand opening of Koki, the stunning new Japanese restaurant — no, experience — at Capella Hanoi. “There are just 30 head of cattle on the farm at any given time, so they don’t get stressed during the three years they’re raised.”

Chef Yoshida knows his beef. He’s the teppanyaki master who steered his Tokyo restaurant, Ishigaki Yoshida, to its first Michelin star back in 2015. The accolade was also the first-ever given to a teppanyaki restaurant. 

As a result, the chef, with his cherubic face and beaming smile, taught the world that going out for teppanyaki need not be reduced to a sideshow of spinning eggs and slinging dishes, that it can be a proper fine-dining experience that leaves your shirt as clean and freshly pressed when you leave as it was when you walked in.   

“The first thing is the family tree of the cattle,” explains the Tokyo native when I ask what makes Ishigaki beef so good. “It determines 80 percent of the flavor of the beef, including the juiciness.” Indeed, Mr Kitauchi’s website impressively claims his ranch’s premium steak hails from the Tajima line known for its “genes for deliciousness.”

When the following evening arrives, I get to experience just how deliciously those genes have delivered. I’m seated in one of four private teppanyaki rooms at Koki that seat just eight guests when chef Yoshida gently places two heavily marbled slabs of meat, each almost the size of a house brick, on the shiny warm teppan before me and announces: “Tonight, special beef from Okinawa Prefecture!”

After which his wife and maître d’ produces a document with a “nose print” and proclaims: “This is the beef certificate showing the beef’s family tree!” Who can argue with these most Japanese of bona fides?

For close to two torturous hours, the blocks of oh-so-rare Japanese beef (flown in directly to the restaurant from Ishigaki and available nowhere else in Vietnam but Capella Hanoi) slowly cook in front of us under the watchful eye of chef Yoshida. Whenever he leaves his station to oversee his staff or prepare another dish, I contemplate breaking every cultural and culinary rule in the book by reaching out and prodding them with my chopsticks, they are that tantalizingly close.

But fortunately I get distracted by the other dishes and the sake (Koki has the most extensive selection of sake in Vietnam) that comes before I get to taste Yoshida san’s teppanyaki.

Firstly, our mouths are gently prepped with a beef consomme jelly with grilled eggplant, salmon roe and an okaki rice cracker, followed by a crispy Hokkaido crab roll that brings a hush over the room, creating an ambiance a world away from the chaotic streets of the Old Quarter above us. 

We could be in one of those subterranean restaurants at a subway station in the center of Tokyo for all I know. This place is lit.

The sea urchin, also flown in directly from Hokkaido twice a week with the crab, is rich and creamy thanks to the scrambled egg and beluga caviar. There’s also a slow-cooked black Japanese abalone marinated for 72 hours in sake closely followed by a small serving of Juwari soba with abalone liver sauce. 

But really, as delicious as they are, they’re the undercard this evening. As expected, it’s the beef that’s the knockout. It’s perfectly cooked, crimson inside, lightly crisped on the outside and all but dissolves in my mouth with its tenderness and juiciness. 

My teeth are superfluous for this experience.

It’s also the first time I’ve eaten steak with a dash of wasabi, which gives each portion extra bite and delivers my nasal cavity the hot rush that comes with eating this most pungent of horseradishes. The combination really works.

“Oishii desu ka?” chef Yoshida politely enquires about the deliciousness of his steak.

“Oishii desu yo!” I reply, drawing on my rusty Japanese language skills from my college days.

The cheerful chef beams back at me in a way that epitomizes the Japanese characters that form the word koki after which this delightful restaurant is named – bright and shiny. 

capellahotels.com/en/capella-hanoi/dining/koki; teppanyaki experiences from VND3,450,000 per person not including beverage, tax or service.