THAILAND’S NORTHEAST REGION is one of our top off-the-radar places to visit because of its unspoiled charm and eclectic vibe. Isaan, the name for the area near Laos that covers nearly 20 provinces, is known as an agricultural hub but also boasts stellar cuisine. Last year, Michelin Thailand expanded to take in four Isaan provinces, and included in its guide the adored Samuay & Sons restaurant led by trailblazer chef Weerawat ‘Num’ Triyasenawat. As Num will tell you, eating in Isaan has a lot more in common with Laos than the rest of Thailand; here pungent, bold and fiery heat are key factors—think funky pla raa (fermented fish), spicy jaew (dipping sauce), and bamboo shoots.
While down in the capital, Isaan food has been considered more on the rustic end of street food, a new cheerleader of the region, Nutthida ‘Eve’ Palasak, 41, the vibrant owner of Zao restaurant in Bangkok, is working to change that. Born in Sisaket, Eve studied fashion in the U.K. before, at the behest of her family, returning to her hometown of Ubon Ratchathani, where she sold tractors for six years. Her deep admiration of and pride for the food and people of Ubon led her to open Zao—with all the tractor employees in tow!— serving home-cooked food they grew up with yet adding an aesthetically modern feel.
Don’t be surprised to catch Eve dressed in Bangkok’s best designers while shopping at the local wet market or making one of her famously super-spicy som tums (green papaya or green mango salad) in a wooden mortar, to pair with sticky rice. Some folks used to turn their noses up at rural Isaan, but Eve is breaking those perceptions with her own chic style mixed with earthiness and heart.
Papaya salads and grilled chicken are a must when eating Isaan food, but if you want to truly discover the northeast cuisine try the steamed catfish with Isaan herbs and chilies, wrapped in banana leaf. There’s a variety of fragrant salads that extend past the typical som tum. Go for the one in which Ubon dong daeng noodles replace papaya and are packed in with herbs, lime slices, tons of chilies and crunchy long beans. Another winner is the cubed watermelon salad dusted with ground rice powder and doused in a funky but mouthwatering pla raa dressing. And be sure your table is colorfully covered in dishes of Eve’s many chili jaew, an Isaan kaleidoscope!
instagram.com/zaoisan; 155 Soi Pridi Banomyong 25, Bangkok; Bt500 per person.
Images courtesy of Zao Zen.
Written By
Megan Leon
Megan Leon is a Bangkok-based freelance food writer and culinary collaborator for emerging restaurants and young talent. In addition to writing for various publications, she also works closely with local chefs, restaurateurs and small-scale suppliers to bring their stories to life through narratives and photography. Beyond her editorial work, Megan ..Read More
