It was what the guides in Serengeti National Park call a “small crossing” — slight in both the number of animals involved (no more than 100) and the number of humans who witnessed it (just a handful). But it was hardly minor to me. 

The zebras were casual — too casual, I suspected — as they trotted across the Mara River. Murky brown water swallowed up their legs and haunches, yet they remained unhurried. All was peaceful.

Then the crocodiles came. At first one, then two — then six — and within seconds, they had taken hold of an adolescent. The water splashed and bubbled, the young equine scuttled, and the crocodiles worked in unsettling concert. Suddenly, the zebra broke away, bucking its hind legs in one last Hail Mary attempt at escape. But it was too late. At the first sight of red, I put my binoculars down and trained my focus on the distant savannah.

Noticing the tears welling up in my eyes, Chrisple Sikawa, my guide from Usawa mobile camp, offered the salve of logic. “This is the circle of life,” he said. “You wouldn’t want the crocodiles to go hungry, would you?”

Heartbroken as I was, I knew he was right. I also knew that such dramatic sightings are precisely the reason one comes to Tanzania’s most famous safari destination: to see the wilderness at its most brazen and brutish, as real as it has ever been or ever will be.

This mobile luxury safari camp travels across the Serengeti National Park

That’s the promise of the great migration, the mass journey of roughly 2 million wildebeests and zebras, and the headlining act of almost any Serengeti safari. The event is constant and year-round, spanning 500 miles (804.67 km) from the southern Serengeti to Kenya’s Masai Mara, just north of the Tanzania border, making it a moving target for the nearly 500,000 tourists who come to the national park every year.

That transient nature is what enticed Keith Vincent, co-founder and CEO of the hospitality company Wilderness, to create Wilderness Usawa Serengeti, a roving camp that opened on its first of nine eventual sites across the Serengeti on July 26. “In the old days of guiding, you had a vehicle and a tent, and you moved wherever the wilderness went and set up camp along the way,” Vincent says. “With Usawa, I wanted to give that freedom back to our guests.”

Wilderness Usawa Serengeti

• A luxury mobile camp, Usawa travels across the Serengeti National Park, popping up seasonally in nine locations across the national park, all set along the path of the great migration.

• The luxury safari camp’s six en-suite tents are designed to have minimal impact on the environment, with off-grid power and water systems, and an innovative design that requires only manpower to build and disassemble.

• The main attractions of any stay at Usawa are the daily game drives and safari walks, during which guests can glimpse the great migration, Big Five animals, and other wildlife.

• Usawa’s custom-designed tents are decorated with art, furniture, and crafts made exclusively by Tanzanian artisans.

• The camp’s all-inclusive rates include three meals a day, all game drives and safari walks, and on-the-ground support from the moment your journey starts.

To do so, Vincent first had to strip down the luxury safari camp experience regularly found at other Wilderness camps. There are no plunge pools or spa treatments at Usawa, but rather a wide-open expanse on the crest of a remote hill, where six guest tents and a larger main tent are wrapped 360 degrees in mesh and canvas, giving a sense of near-total exposure to the elements. The entire operation is off-grid, with lighting supplied by rechargeable lanterns and solar-powered lamps (romantic or vexing, depending on your task) and showers fed by buckets of manually heated water that funnel into taps by simple gravity (and, boy, do they feel amazing).

Still, nothing comes close to roughing it. King-size beds are dressed in crisp white linens, bathrooms are stocked with Inaya Zanzibar’s all-natural products, and décor is a curated assemblage of local design and ingenuity. The greatest luxury of all, however, is Usawa’s connection to nature: the cool breezes that drift through your tent, the sound of raindrops and elephants trumpeting as you drift to sleep, the first sliver of early morning sun as it stretches across the horizon to gently wake you.

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“But the real fun of it,” Vincent insists, “is the chase.” Thus, Usawa moves with the great migration — from the south’s calving season, during which hundreds of wildebeests are born every day, to the mass crossings that take place on the Mara River — with Wilderness operating up to three identical camps at any one time, while a fourth transitions to the next site. Guests can easily follow the action, hopscotching from camp to camp. Once the herd moves on, Wilderness packs up and makes for the next location, leaving no trace behind.

Over five days at one of the camp’s northern locations, I found that however great the migration itself is, it was only a small part of any experience in the Serengeti, which is home to one of the most wildlife-rich expanses in Africa. Spanning more than 5,500 square miles (14,244.93 square kilometres), it is the quintessential picture of sub-Saharan wilderness, home to an abundance of big cats, as well as the rest of the Big Five animals (including a growing population of rhinos), plus giraffes, elephants, hyenas, and more than 500 bird species.

But, in the end, it was the great migration that once again beckoned. Though the heartache of our earlier sighting was still fresh in my mind, I agreed to let Sikawa show me what he called “the magic of a big crossing.” And so, we set out for the Mara, tracing its banks until a massive swirl of dust caught our attention — a scuffle of hooves pounding the dirt, Sikawa explained.

We arrived at its source minutes later, just as the first wildebeests were crossing, grunting and bucking all the while, literally running for their lives. One by one, as they made their safe passage across the river, they surrounded our vehicle, their mews nothing short of celebratory to my ears. The crossing carried on for close to an hour, and when the dust finally settled, not a single casualty had occurred. Then, a calf, clearly exhausted, dropped onto its knees to nurse from its mother’s teat. I felt the tears welling up once again, and this time they poured out like rain. It had been quite the journey — for all of us.

The rooms

Designed by Luxury Frontiers (whose other hospitality projects include Camp Sarika by Amangiri in Utah and Naviva, a Four Seasons Resort in Punta Mita, Mexico), Usawa’s six en-suite tents are made from overlapping swatches of canvas and mesh to eliminate the barrier between the indoors and the great outdoors.

Still, every creature’s comfort has been accounted for. King-size beds are dressed in luxury linens; minibars are stocked with fresh coffee, tea, and snacks; and toiletries are from the all-natural skincare brand Inaya Zanzibar. Interiors throughout the camp showcase Tanzania’s artisans and designers: handwoven baskets, blankets, and pillows are sourced from a local collective that empowers women to achieve financial independence. Glassware, beaded chandeliers, and leather details come from Sanaa, a non-profit that teaches lucrative crafts to those with disabilities. And tables and chairs made from upcycled plastic are the ingenious creation of Arusha-based DuniaDesigns.

Outside, my husband and I lounged on our hammock (often with a bottle of South African rosé) or watched the surrounding hills through binoculars from a pair of canvas chairs. We regularly witnessed game drive–worthy sightings right outside our tent, from a family of elephants crossing the hills to the hundreds of zebras and wildebeest that wandered right through camp.

Food and drink

Usawa is all-inclusive, including spirits and a wide selection of wines from the African continent. The culinary team takes full advantage of Tanzania’s robust farming culture, serving both international and traditional Swahili dishes. Okra takes on heavenly forms in spicy curry, South African syrah sings with fragrant Zanzibari-spiced pilau rice, and creamy mtori soup, made with fresh plantains, is equal parts sweet and savoury — and utterly irresistible.

All mealtimes and menus are customized for guests as they plan each day with their guide. Pre-safari breakfasts are lavish spreads of porridge, fruit, pastries, and made-to-order eggs. Lunch is served overlooking the savannah at the edge of the luxury safari camp or as a picnic on game drives. Dinners are multi-course affairs served under the starry night sky or in the main tent.

Experiences and amenities

Activities are centred on the magnificent theatre that is the great wilderness of the Serengeti. As Usawa travels among nine locations throughout the national park, guests are afforded the chance to witness the great migration up close in its many phases. From January to March, the southern Serengeti bears witness to the birth of thousands of wildebeests (an estimated 800 calves are born each day). Come July, the herds move north and river crossings are the main event.

Game drives and bush walks are offered daily. One morning we set out straight from the luxury safari camp on foot, skirting a family of elephants as they broke down an entire acacia tree for an afternoon feast, then catching sight of a cheetah sprinting across the hillside 100 yards away. On a drive the next day, we encountered a mother cheetah and her cubs, the white of their bellies fat and round, the scruff of their chins blood-stained—and vultures circling overhead in pursuit of the remains of their kill. We waited patiently outside a cluster of bushes for a leopard to at last poke out its spotted head; watched a thick-maned lion perch proudly atop a boulder, keeping a watchful eye over a valley filled with prey; and counted the many crocodiles ominously patrolling the banks of the river.

Family-friendly offerings

Usawa welcomes children from six years old. Buy-outs are available for families with members of all ages. All safari activities can be customised to accommodate different ages and abilities.

Accessibility and sustainability

Wilderness’s greatest ambition in creating Usawa was to create a luxury safari camp that would minimally impact the Earth. Power is provided by solar panels and portable batteries that are recharged at a main power bank. Tents are constructed only by employees, ensuring the least possible disturbance to the native wildlife and enabling the camp to be easily and quickly moved from location to location. “We’ll leave no trace,” Vincent says. “One storm and the grassland will look like we’ve never been there.”

To preserve the land, Usawa has forgone constructing sewage systems, employing a series of innovations to stay more eco-friendly. Toilets operate on portable septic systems, with waste routinely removed from the park or used to fertilize the grounds when possible. Filtered cold and hot water are supplied to guests throughout the day. Showers are especially clever in their operation, supplied by heated water that is manually fed into overhead buckets and then funnelled into taps. Simply pull the chain for a steamy cascade.

Usawa is not ADA-compliant, which is typical for luxury safari camps like this one.

Location

To arrive at Serengeti National Park, travellers can fly via Hamad International Airport in Doha to Kilimanjaro International Airport, then connect from Arusha Airport to one of Serengeti National Park’s airstrips. Wilderness plans all itineraries end-to-end with VIP travel perks, including Al Maha service when flying with Qatar Airways. In Arusha, we stayed at Elewana Arusha Coffee Lodge, a Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards 2020 winner set on a coffee farm.

Usawa’s nine locations stretch from the southern Serengeti National Park to Tanzania’s northern border with Kenya. Up to three camps will operate simultaneously to allow guests to follow the great migration as closely as possible. Wilderness arranges guest stays based on predictions of the great migration path.

How to get the most value out of your stay

Safaris are admittedly costly, but Wilderness’s all-inclusive pricing includes everything: accommodations, unlimited meals and beverages, all activities, and transfers within Serengeti National Park. Wilderness also partners with airlines such as Qatar Airways to offer discounted flights for safari goers. Nightly rates at Usawa start at USD 950 per person, with a minimum two-night stay.

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This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

All currency conversions were done at the time of writing

Related:  This New Safari In Australia Visits 8 National Parks In 21 Days

Northern Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park sits along the Zambezi River and is known for its unspoiled beauty, canoe trails, and extraordinary wildlife that flock here to drink water from its natural pools. And a new camp allows travellers to fully immerse in this stunning landscape, which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984.

Molori Mashuma, the second property from South African company Molori Safari, opened on August 15 with only six tented accommodations offering privacy, unobstructed views, and access to the wildlife-rich grasslands of Mashuma Pan.

This stunning National Park in Zimbabwe just got a new luxury camp

“Mana Pools represents the most unique truly African wilderness experience that I have ever come across in all my years of being in the bush,” Eric Ichikowitz, co-owner of Molori Mashuma, told Travel + Leisure. “It is a game and wilderness experience unlike anything else because you are not chasing the wildlife to tick off a list, you are immersed and present in the moment, with the open landscapes, fauna and flora, and the wildlife that roam.”

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The spacious air-conditioned accommodations feature private decks for game viewing and relaxation as well as amenities such as soaking bathtubs, outdoor showers, and beautiful design and decor by local artists. Two two-bedroom family tents with private plunge pools are also available.

Molori Mashuma’s main lodge boasts a 5,457-square-foot deck with several lounge and dining areas, a pool, and a bar, perfect for enjoying the views of the lush surroundings. Visitors can also observe and photograph wildlife on guided walking safaris (there are three locations for game viewing in the area).

“Walking through the fever tree forests and watching elephants in their droves, moving through the forest and interacting with big herds of eland and zebras frolicking and playing around them, while the monkeys jump from the trees, is one of my ultimate wilderness experiences,” Ichikowitz added.

Mana Pools National Park is home to the country’s largest crocodile and hippo population, many predators, and hundreds of bird species.

Molori Mashuma is open seasonally from the beginning of April to the end of October. Nightly rates start from USD 1,725.

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This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

Related: World’s Tallest ‘Hemp Hotel’ Trails South Africa’s Green Credentials

This inspiring brand incorporates farm fresh foods, local produce options and reduced waste in its sustainability strategy.

EXPERIENCING LOCAL CULTURE and sampling authentic regional flavours are amongst the best reasons to experience places like Zanzibar, Tunisia and Mauritius. The Residence by Cenizaro is a luxury brand that exceeds those expectations through a deep commitment to sustainability, the planet and people — all in some of the planet’s most awe-inspiring locations.

The Residence by Cenizaro is dedicated to nurturing people and the environment through its unique Earth Basket Programme, which launched in 2020 and allows the brand to develop and share ongoing initiatives toward conservation. The programme is active across all of the brand’s properties and is evident in its range of farm fresh foods, local produce options and reduced waste.

Showcasing Local Biodiversity

Kitchen gardens are a key part of the brand’s strategy to offer world-class sustainability alongside experiences that also enrich the local community.

Earth Basket is part of the Cenizaro Cares initiative and challenges each resort to transform a dedicated space into a year-round on-site kitchen farm. Each resort is given independence in developing the farms to suit their unique needs, layouts and climates to provide the best showcase for native produce.

By letting each resort lead its own kitchen farm, the brand encourages agricultural education among staff and showcases local biodiversity in each destination. The programme also allows guests to dine on rich varieties of zero-kilometre produce at peak freshness — a unique experience for cuisine-loving guests. 

Another facet of Earth Basket is lowering food waste from each resort while composting the unavoidable waste. All compost on the properties is then used to fertilise the kitchen gardens and avoid the need for pesticides.

“We want to be more than a window for our guests to view the natural beauty of their surroundings. We want to offer travellers an immersive, enriching opportunity to experience the real local biodiversity of each of our properties, the full flavours of the land and feel a connection with the community,” says Alexys Tjhia, Director of Corporate Responsibility at The Residence by Cenizaro. “We are incredibly privileged to be in some of the world’s most breathtaking places, and we want to ensure that we pay it back by kickstarting efforts to preserve and grow what makes them so special.”

Earth Basket in Action

At The Residence Bintan, Earth Basket has harvested over 10,100 kg of fresh produce since December 2019 and. in 2023 to date, the resort has harvested over 4,250 kg. The resort has a family of chickens and ducks to provide 13,400 fresh eggs this year and dwarf coconut trees, pulai trees and Singapore cherry trees to enhance dishes. The kitchen garden also has its own spice garden, featuring herbs from which guests can learn to make jamu, a traditional Indonesian herbal tonic.

The Residence Maldives cultivates Ayurvedic plants to incorporate into uplifting, health-focused beverages and produces house-made virgin coconut oil for its spa treatments, while The Residence Tunis produces its own olive oil for use in its kitchens.

Seeing Sustainable Results 

The Earth Basket initiative has also positively impacted the environment surrounding the resorts by rehabilitating degraded land into thriving habitats with increased biodiversity. At some resorts, native fauna has even begun to return as the land evolves into welcoming homes for animals.

Other ongoing projects led by the brand include mangrove restoration and coastal clean-ups beyond the resort boundaries, each organised to involve, educate and benefit the broader community.

With the Earth Basket programme fully integrated into an elevated guest experience, guests can eat and live better than ever at the properties. On-site activities at the farms will also let visitors get involved and create memorable experiences with nature, such as gardener-led tours that share knowledge about the ecosystem and native plants.

These initiatives lie at the core of Cenizaro’s sustainability efforts and show its commitment to inspiring change for a sustainable future. So, no matter which destination you choose, visiting any of The Residence by Cenizaro properties will be a delicious and delightful journey into sustainability.

Article Sponsored by The Residence by Cenizaro.
Images courtesy of The Residence by Cenizaro.

Three minutes. That’s all it took to spot my first chameleon after landing on Nosy Ankao, a palm-tufted island just off the coast of northern Madagascar. I was giddy with excitement, but the striped lizard, about the size of a coke can didn’t flinch. He threw me a look with his lens-like eye and carried on with his slow, jerky walk across the concrete path.

Along with the ylang ylang–scented cold towel and giant coconut I received after disembarking the helicopter that picked me up from Nosy Be airport, I couldn’t have asked for a better welcome to Miavana. One of the most illustrious island resorts in the Indian Ocean, Miavana opened in 2017. It’s backed by French-Mauritian financier Thierry Dalais, who also invested in the equally fabled North Island resort in Seychelles. It’s a high-flier hideaway for 1 per cent of the 1 per cent; a discrete and ultra-private retreat where you could have the likes of Martha Steward or Tom Cruise as your neighbour, and not even know.

This Island resort in the Indian Ocean is a dreamy getaway!

In my career as a travel journalist, I’ve been lucky enough to visit some of the dreamiest resorts around the globe, but even before my arrival at Miavana, I knew I was in for something special. Nosy Ankao, the resort’s coral-fringed island base, which it shares with a small village of thatch-roofed huts and dozen-or-so lemurs, is notoriously hard to get to. That’s part of Miavana’s appeal. After the long flight to Nosy Be, which requires at least one stopover for travellers flying commercial, all guests still need to cross the northern tip of Madagascar on a one-hour helicopter flight aboard a four-seat Robinson R66 helicopter painted in the resort’s signature turquoise hue.

But what awaited was well worth the schlep: mile after footprint-free mile of sugar-white beach, shared between just 14 accommodations. Miavana calls them “villas,” but that seems like an understatement: with their cavernous living areas, separate lounge rooms, two breezy bathrooms, and an outdoor shower, even the entry-level villas are more akin to mini-estates. My villa, a two-bedroom retreat, came with a detached fully fitted villa that would’ve been a top-category stay in many a beach resort. Here, it was just the second bedroom.

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Regardless of their category, all villas open to sprawling private gardens dotted with multiple sunbeds and Breton-striped bean bags around an ellipse-shaped pool. Their interiors, designed by South African architecture power couple Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, deliver a breezy mix of wickerwork, local limestone, and midcentury modern furniture accented with nautical touches such as copper porthole windows and fist-sized seashells.

With such a vast amount of private space and more pillow-strewn lounge nooks than I could count on one hand, it was dangerously easy to slip into a beachy bliss. From the sun chairs on my villa’s deck, I could stare for hours at the turquoise horizon, watching whip-quick birds chase flies in the jungle fringe and geckos basking in the sun. Between dips in my private pool and the gin-clear ocean out front, I’d challenge my Kindle batteries to read up on the fascinating history of the African island that lay on the horizon. My butler was just a WhatsApp message away to deliver fresh pineapple juice, iced lattes, or a full-fledged in-room brunch or dinner with everything from Malagasy vanilla crepes to cheese platters to smoothie bowls topped with local cocoa nibs. I could’ve easily spent my midweek stay here, not leaving my villa at all. And as South African resort manager Craig Gemmell told me over dinner one night, many guests would – some for more than two weeks at a time.

I, though, was itching to see more of the island and its surroundings. As one of the most biodiverse regions in the world, Madagascar is home to numerous species of lemurs, reptiles, and plants that exist nowhere else on the planet. During a guided jungle walk around the island, I spotted several more chameleons, dozens of geckos, and orchid species that could only be found in this part of the country. The underwater landscapes were just as bewitching: while snorkelling around a nearby reef, a kaleidoscopic collection of clownfish, parrotfish, and even a lone green turtle slid down below me in a coral forest that has, so far, evaded major bleaching events. And if I had a bigger budget, Miavana’s helicopter safaris could’ve taken me to other corners of the mainland, where the team can set up picnics in little-visited baobab forests or organise treks to find rare black lemur species with an expert guide.

Back at the resort, the Piazza, Miavana’s beachfront gathering spot, gave me more reasons to leave my villa. It’s home to the communal pool – a sweeping white number lined with loungers and gauzy curtains billowing in the wind – and a small museum studded with taxidermied insects and bones from now-extinct local animal species (the Madagasy pygmy hippopotamus and elephant bird eggs among them). The restaurant, too, is located here, and during my five-day stay, I didn’t see the same dish on the menu twice. One afternoon, I ordered a table-spanning spread of Madagasy curries and grilled fish for lunch and a perfectly cheesy pizza margarita for dinner. Another day, I could choose between short rib ramen, mezze platters, or tandoor-roasted cauliflower, but was told that the chefs were always more than happy to go off-menu, too. Blinis and caviar or a perfectly done beef Wellington? I could name it, they’d fix it — even if I had wanted an exact brand of soy sauce on my sushi.

All this, of course, comes at a price. With a room rate starting at about USD 3,400 per person per night, Miavana’s price tag makes many a five-star hotel look like a steal. It’s among the most expensive resorts in the world, but the rate includes plenty of perks: all meals and drinks, including top-shelf spirits and many premium wines. Guests also don’t have to pay extra for scuba dives, boat cruises around the archipelago, or guided island excursions.

Still, it’s hard to put a price on a place this special. “What makes Miavana unbeatable is its proximity to some of the Earth’s most precious wildlife,” says Bjorn Behlert, senior travel consultant for Africa at luxury tour operator Scott Dunn, who regularly books his clients here. “From the tops of baobab trees to down deep in the coral reefs, there are surprises everywhere. Its magnificent biodiversity coupled with a truly unique luxury experience is one of the many reasons guests book – and re-book – this remote island resort.”

Scott Dunn customises luxury travel and offers a five-night stay at Miavana, including helicopter transfers, all meals, top-shelf spirits and bar drinks, a variety of water activities, boat cruises, fishing trips, spa treatments, and a round-trip business-class flight from New York. It starts at USD 36,900 per person.

(Hero and feature image credit: Pat Boon/Getty Images)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

Related: Some Of The Most Expensive Luxury Resorts Around The Globe

Mount Nelson is an icon and a treasure.

I’ve never been big on the color pink. For as long as I can remember, I’ve prided myself on being the alternative tom-boy type who would, to my grandmother’s despair, eat a beetle before wearing a pink shirt. And when my mother painted my room blue with decals of pink flowers for my ninth birthday, I packed my brother’s ruby-red wagon and ran away from home (to the backyard) in the middle of my party.

Since then, I’ve mostly gotten over my aversion to the frilly and feminine. However, if you were to have told me that a stay at a famously rosy hotel aristocratically nicknamed the Pink Lady would not only be one of my favorite hotels I’ve been to in years, but also have me shopping for a billowing floral dress just to match the space’s aesthetic, I’d have laughed heartily at your joke.

Cape Town’s ultimate grande dame, Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel, gained its now-iconic rose-glaze in 1918—about 20 years after opening as a hotel and more than 175 years after being founded—when the hotel’s then-manager, Aldo Renato, decided to repaint the exterior in celebration of the end of World War I. Up close, the shade is something like a bruised rose, but from the high up plateau of Table Mountain, its blush is subtle amongst Cape Town’s streets. No matter the altitude, it’s a color that undeniably feels celebratory, just like Renato intended. When the concierge tells me that the paint job inspired a trend among other grand European hotels to don pastel hues, I believe him.

But even if “the Nellie,” as her intimates know her, weren’t pink, I’m pretty sure she’d still hold the same grasp on her guests. Sitting under the glare of the slopes of magnificent Table Mountain, the estate is at the center of Cape Town, just off of Kloof Street, one of the most densely packed restaurant-and-boutique-shopping hubs in the Mother City. 

Here, you’re tucked back just enough from the coast that there are no sea views—but that doesn’t matter. You’re playing royalty on nine acres of pristinely manicured lawns and gardens fit for a palace (or a meditating John Lennon, who found Zen among the hotel’s hydrangeas).  Plus, Cape Town’s craggy coastlines and beaches are just a chauffeur’s ride away. 

In all honesty, it was hard to pull myself away from my strawberries-and-cream striped towel at the very plush pool, dotted by people whom I told myself were very important, say, a CEO and his wife seeking R&R after going on safari, or producers from Hollywood taking a break after a day of location scouting. I made sure to position myself in the middle of the most symmetrical parts of the hotel—dramatically walking from the lobby to the fountain, choosing the lounger framed by palms—in case the latter was present, and, in fact, was working for Wes Anderson. (Seriously, how has he not filmed a movie at this old-world, pastel palace?!) 

The vibe at Mount Nelson is palpably slow, despite the grandeur of it all—no rushing from one activity to the next, just relaxing. I made fast friends with almost every staff member I interacted with. It was white-glove service but with a refreshingly genuine—human—element that I find missing at many hotels.

While waiting for my room to be ready after arriving from the airport hotel at a super cool 5 a.m., I get chatting with Wellington at the front desk. He gives me a briefing about Cape Town as if I am an old friend from college visiting, giving me what feels like an honest introduction to the city. The interaction sets the tone for my entire stay in the city. Plus, he even gives me a fast pass ticket to Table Mountain that he’d been holding onto. Thanks, Welly.

I’m staying in a sweet garden cottage room, complete with its own rose garden and picket fence. I can see myself living here, waving at the neighbors in the morning from my front patio, coffee in hand as the sun peeks over Table Mountain. The decor, a sea of Earth tones and sparkly marble in the bathroom is toned-down glam. 

It’s here, in the reflection of my room’s Venetian mirror, where I conclude that to walk the Nellie’s floral wallpapered, pink-outfitted corridors while wearing Nike Blazers, black jeans and a wrinkled black button-up is to insult not just myself but the entire establishment. I lowered my head and beelined to the first shop I saw selling floral dresses. 

www.belmond.com; rooms from ZAR14,500

Most hotels have bacon in their breakfast buffets. But Farm Sanctuary SA, a boutique hotel in South Africa’s bucolic Winelands, doesn’t serve bacon; it saves pigs from becoming bacon. In fact, it’s home to the world’s only oinker artist. 

“Pig-cassoooooooo!” sings Joanne Lefson in a playful, high-pitched voice when she slides open the doors to the big wooden barn that doubles as the hotel’s lobby. At the sound of her name, Pigcasso, a 1,500-pound sow asleep in a pile of straw, slowly comes to life.

This hotel in South Africa is home to the famous painting Pig!

She knows it’s time for two things: apples and art. “You can give anyone a paintbrush, and they’ll know what to do with it,” Lefson, Farm Sanctuary SA’s founder, tells me as we follow Pigcasso, who clearly knows where she’s going, out the barn doors to her studio. “But there’s only one pig in the world you can give a paintbrush to that will know what to do with it.”

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Of course, Pigcasso, whose paintings sell for thousands of dollars to buyers all over the world, wasn’t born with a silver brush in her mouth. In 2016 she was destined to be someone’s dinner. Fortunately, at the 11th hour, Lefson, a passionate animal rights activist, rescued Pigcasso from a slaughterhouse. At the time, Lefson was building Farm Sanctuary SA, and her new rescue was intent on destroying everything laying around in the process.

“I noticed that the only thing she didn’t devour were the paintbrushes,” says Lefson. So, with the help of apples – which she uses as a reward – she taught the mischievous little pig how to hold a brush in her mouth and apply paint to a canvas. Naming the aspiring artist Pigcasso was a no-brainer. Lefson, a former professional golfer now in her 50s, has been “saving” animals ever since she was a kid. She even wrote a book, “Ahound the World,”  which chronicles her travels to dozens of countries with Oscar, a Mr Congeniality award-winning mutt she rescued from the pound.

“The hotel lobby is plastered with Pigcasso paintings”

My room at Farm Sanctuary SA is the stone chapel cottage (USD 100 per night). It’s covered in photos of the late Oscar: cheezing for the camera with monks in Thailand, meeting with Maasai warriors in Kenya, and posing in front of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Meanwhile, the barn, which in addition to the hotel’s lobby houses rescued pigs, sheep, goats, and chickens, is plastered with Pigcasso paintings and articles about the world’s only painting pig. A laminated letter from Jane Goodall, who has one of Pigcasso’s paintings, reads, “I was so thrilled when I heard about your painting Pig. And the videos are fantastic. Is it OK if I use one in my lectures?”

The barn is also where the hotel’s kitchen is. Farm Sanctuary SA only serves vegetarian food – its mission is to “inspire a more compassionate and sustainable world” – and because it’s an open layout, I can see a little lamb weaving its way between the chef’s legs. A couple in their 20s from Austria is staying in the master suite (from USD 125 per night), accessible via the spiral staircase leading to the barn’s loft. They show me photos on their phones of them feeding the orphaned lamb a bottle of milk during the middle of the night. I ask if they were annoyed that their room came with Old MacDonald’s entourage. “Not at all,” they laugh. “It’s why we booked the loft!”

Farm Sanctuary SA, which functions as a sanctuary for farm animals first and a hotel for humans second, has 13 rooms, all unique in their design and spread throughout the property. The five newest rooms are in the newly restored 19th-century manor house. Guests can also book repurposed shipping containers that Lefson converted into industrial-chic tiny homes.

Even though it’s a working farm with animals, Farm Sanctuary SA is within walking distance of downtown Franschhoek, a picturesque South African community about 90 minutes east of Cape Town with a population of 1,000.

I ask the Austrian couple how they learned about Farm Sanctuary SA. I discovered it, randomly, on Airbnb, and because I grew up on a farm in Montana, I figured I had to check it out. “We already knew about Pigcasso,” says the woman. “So we wanted to meet her while we were visiting South Africa.”

Pigcasso, who has been featured on Saturday Night Live, the BBC, and CNN, just to name a few, is somewhat of a celebrity in Europe. She’s especially popular among art collectors.

While the Austrian couple originally just planned on seeing Pigcasso, while on-site they decide to commission a painting. “Who knows?” says the man. “One day it could be worth millions.” While it’s normally a private experience between the guests, Pigcasso, and Lefson, the couple is happy to let me observe.

I watch as Lefson dips the paintbrush in the colour of the couple’s choosing before handing it to Pigcasso. The pig takes it in her mouth and makes a beeline for the canvas. She can paint lines, dots, and circles, and she signs every piece with her snout. After just 30 minutes, Pigcasso has painted three canvases for the couple, who get to choose their favourite to take home. After nearly an hour of analysing each canvas, they choose a red, white, and blue number they name “The Peeps.”

I’m amazed: Pigcasso’s work really does resemble the work of Pablo Picasso. There’s even a game in the barn where you have to decide if the paintings on display were done by Picasso or Pigcasso. I get half of them wrong. I wish I could blame it on all the wine I’ve been drinking – the Franschhoek Valley is full of vineyards, and Pigcasso even has her own line of wine – but it’s only 11 a.m. I’m as sober as the little lamb is drunk on milk. In fact, I haven’t even had breakfast yet.

Now that the painting session is over, I’m going to hit up Farm Sanctuary SA’s kitchen. I’m not sure what they’re serving at this hour, but I know one thing: it’s not ham and eggs.

(Hero and feature image credit: joannelefson.com, pigcasso.org)

This story first appeared on www.travelandleisure.com

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With 12 storeys, a breathtaking view of Cape Town’s imposing Table Mountain and a minimal ecological footprint, the world’s tallest building made with industrial hemp is soon to open its doors in South Africa.

Workers in central Cape Town are putting the finishing touches on the 54-room Hemp Hotel, which is due to be completed in June. “Hempcrete” blocks derived from the cannabis plant have been used to fill the building’s walls, supported by a concrete and cement structure.

All you need to know about the upcoming Hemp Hotel in Cape Town, South Africa

Hemp bricks are becoming increasingly popular in the construction world thanks to their insulating, fire-resistant and climate-friendly properties. Used notably in Europe for thermal renovation of existing buildings, the blocks are carbon negative — meaning their production sucks more planet-warming gases out of the atmosphere than it puts in.

 

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“The plant absorbs the carbon, it gets put into a block and is then stored into a building for 50 years or longer,” explains Boshoff Muller, director of Afrimat Hemp, a subsidiary of South African construction group Afrimat, which produced the bricks for the hotel. “What you see here is a whole bag full of carbon, quite literally,” Muller says as he pats a bag of mulch at a brick factory on the outskirts of Cape Town, where hemp hurds, water and lime are mixed together to make the blocks.

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The industrial hemp used for the Hemp Hotel had to be imported from Britain as South Africa banned local production up to last year, when the government started issuing cultivation permits. President Cyril Ramaphosa has made developing the country’s hemp and cannabis sector an economic priority, saying it could create more than 130,000 jobs.

 Carbon credits

Afrimat Hemp is now preparing to produce its first blocks made only with South African hemp. Hemp Hotel architect Wolf Wolf, 52, sees this as a game changer to make hemp buildings more widespread in this corner of the world. “It shouldn’t be just a high-end product,” says Wolf, whose firm is involved in several social housing projects in South Africa and neighbouring Mozambique.  Yet cost remains an issue.

“Hemp is 20 percent more expensive to build with” compared to conventional materials, says Afrimat Hemp’s carbon consultant Wihan Bekker. But as the world races to lower carbon emissions, the firm sees “huge opportunities” for its green bricks, says Bekker.

Carbon credits — permits normally related to the planting of trees to safeguard tropical rainforests that companies buy to offset their emissions — could help make hempcrete blocks more financially palatable, he says. “We can fund forests, or we can fund someone to live in a hemp house. It’s the same principle,” Bekker says.

The carbon footprint of a 40 square metre (430 square foot) house built with hemp is three tons of CO2 lower than that of a conventional building, according to Afrimat Hemp. “We see this as a bit of a lighthouse project,” Muller says of the Hemp Hotel. “It shows hemp has its place in the construction sector.”Hemp Hotel has been ranked the “tallest building to incorporate hemp-based materials in the world” by Steve Allin, director of the Ireland-based International Hemp Building Association.

This story was published via AFP Relaxnews

Main and Feature Image Credit: Photography Rodger Bosch/AFP©, To go  with AFP story by Julie Bourdin

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I was just about to pour myself a glass of wine, shed my dusty clothes, and slip into the bubble bath waiting on my riverside deck when there was a knock at the door. 

Instead of soaking, I spent the next hour enjoying a massage in the privacy of my suite. This was a lovely turn of events as, truth be told, I’m not really a bath person — but preparing a candlelit outdoor tub each evening is all part of the service at Royal Chundu, and even I couldn’t deny the allure.

Take a look inside Royal Chundu – a luxury lodge in Zambia

Royal Chundu is Zambia’s first Relais & Châteaux property, comprising just 14 suites between two lodges. The main River Lodge is a tranquil series of thatched-roof suites lining the Zambezi River, with a pool, bar, and relaxing common area just steps away. Within minutes of my arrival earlier that afternoon, I’d started scouting a shady spot to grab a drink and catch up on emails, but I wasn’t at my final destination just yet.

I’d been upgraded to the Island Lodge which, as the name suggests, sits on an island in the Zambezi. Only four, ultra-private suites occupy Chundu Island, and each features an expansive outdoor space, a dual-head shower, and an enormous king-size bed.

“The Island Lodge is for making babies,” said general manager Hessah Silwebbe, laughing as he introduced me to Royal Chundu and shared the news of my accommodation alteration. He’d also forgiven my appearance, which was bedraggled and casual at best after lodge hopping in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park with Journeysmiths for several nights prior to crossing the Zambian border. I’d felt out of place in this upscale setting, but only for a moment.

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“You are home now. Please relax,” said Silwebbe, ushering me aboard a boat that took me from the River Lodge to my island retreat. A tray of snacks kept me satiated for the 15-minute journey, all of which I spent in awe of the river.

The Zambezi swells during and after the rainy season, and the water levels are at their highest from March through June. During my visit in early June, the width reminded me more of a lake than a river. From this perspective on the water, it was easy to understand why Victoria Falls was shrouded in thick spray during my morning visit. The massive waterfall is just 30 kilometres (19 miles) from Royal Chundu, and there are myriad ways to experience it up close — as my still-damp camera bag could attest.

Post-massage, I went to dinner wearing a gorgeous knee-length robe I found hanging in my wardrobe; it had been hand-sewn by the ladies of the Zambezi Joy Society and looked more like a wrap dress than a bathrobe. My meal began with seared bream, continued with delicately spiced eggplant curry, and finished with a silky chocolate mousse. Dinner, I soon learned, is served somewhere slightly different each night — just to keep things interesting, according to Silwebbe.

As I got into bed that evening, I noticed turndown service included a strategically placed hot water bottle between the sheets — a nice touch given the onset of winter, when mornings and evenings were chillier than I’d anticipated. I was treated to fantastic service from morning until evening throughout my three-night stay. I couldn’t help but notice that every time I left my suite, someone came to check if anything needed tidying or the minibar needed refreshing. The telltale sign? The toilet paper was always folded to a perfect point.

The beautiful setting, thoughtful service, and even the cheeky monkey who hopped on my breakfast table one morning to swipe muffins straight from the basket were enough to make me want to return to Royal Chundu, but what I appreciated most about this lodge is the team’s commitment to the wider community.

It’s easy for travellers to glide in and out of hotels without giving much thought to the greater impact their visits have on the people and places they encounter. And while greenwashing — the marketing of products and practices to appear environmentally friendly even if no tangible difference is being made — certainly exists, it’s equally easy for hotels, restaurants, tour operators, and other businesses in the tourism industry to claim that they “give back” without travellers having a real idea of what that means.

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“The story of Royal Chundu is one of community, culture, and conservation,” said lodge manager Aggie Maseko Banda. “When people come [here], they must understand that they are coming to learn about conservation, to learn how people in Zambia live by visiting our communities.”

And this isn’t just smooth talk: Royal Chundu’s staff is 99% Zambian, and the lodge returns 74% of its total income to the surrounding communities. Management is transparent about where funding goes, and guests are invited to visit the nearby village of Malambo and the Royal Chundu Foundation School to gain a broader perspective of daily life in the area.

“We are a different lodge in that we pride ourselves on empowering the people around us,” explained Banda. “Zambians have been running this property and it is five-star. We are so proud to say that we — the locals — are doing everything. This makes us happy and we get the best reviews from guests, so why not?”

I visited the school and village, and was struck by the juxtaposition of a luxury property in an area where it’s entirely possible that a child will complete high school without ever having used a computer.

It was difficult to reconcile the costs of a three-night stay at Royal Chundu when a woman from the village next door explained how she used a particular leaf to create glue to seal a folded piece of paper when she didn’t have money to buy an envelope. But then she proudly showed me the community garden, lush with rows of tomatoes and lettuce, and explained that Royal Chundu provided the seeds and bought the produce. She made it clear that the lodge in Zambia has improved the lives of the villagers.

Responsible travel is a vast and nuanced topic, but each of us (and our tourism dollars) can make more of an impact than we might expect. It was clear to me that the people who work at and live near Royal Chundu genuinely appreciate the lodge and its guests — which, of course, was exactly what Banda told me in the first place.

“In our culture, visitors mean everything. Visitors bring so many good things for us.”

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This story first appeared in travelandleisure.com

Main and Feature Image Credit: Jack Weightman Harton

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