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My Green Adventure: How I Chased The Northern Lights In Norway

Most places north of the Arctic Circle offer the chance to witness the aurora. Here's how to chase the Northern Lights in Norway.

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By Tania Tarafdar Published on Oct 17, 2023, 05:00 PM

My Green Adventure: How I Chased The Northern Lights In Norway

Cosying up in a glass cabin and sleeping under the Northern Lights has always been on my bucket list. So, when we finally booked our tickets to Tromsø, Norway, my husband and I casually joked about how we would struggle to fall asleep under the shimmering green aurora in Northern Norway. Turns out, we were mistaken about every aspect of viewing the Northern Lights in Norway.  

What is the best time to see the Northern Lights in Norway? 

The optimal time to see the Northern Lights above the Arctic Circle is between late September and late March. We specifically chose late September, when the days are sunny, the skies clear and the temperature is comfortable (we are not used to brutal winters). Nevertheless, Norway’s weather can be unpredictable, so the longer you stay, the better your chances. 

Moreover, the Northern Lights activity tends to be much more intense during the equinoxes — Spring Equinox (March 21) and Autumn Equinox (September 23). While the aurora borealis is visible from late August, it is the equinox that gives this cosmic light show an extra boost often producing some of the best activity. Of course, it’s impossible to exactly predict when you can see the dancing lights – but there is something about the equinox that auroras seem to love. 

Do Northern Lights hotels and resorts guarantee aurora sightings? 

It was nearly 12 pm when we landed in Tromsø from Oslo, Noway. The sky was a mystical shade of sky blue (I was secretly smiling as I knew that clear skies increase the chances of aurora sightings). We had booked a stay at a cabin in Malangen Resort, one and a half hours outside Tromsø city. We picked up our rental car from the airport (Europcar) and navigated through the scenic road punctuated by bridges, tunnels, and mighty landscapes.    

Norway Road Trip

Malangen is on the edge of civilisation, known for panoramic vistas and aurora sightings. With the hope of seeing the electric green fury while relaxing in the hot tub, we ended up spending two hours outdoors. The Arctic sauna was sure an unrivalled experience with the views of icy glaciers in the backdrop. After a delicious dinner in the resort, we waited in our cabin for the aurora to show up. We also played some old classics and filled the wine glasses. And before we could tell, we fell asleep (no aurora yet!).  

Malangen Resort, Norway

After enjoying a wholesome breakfast, the next morning, we started our journey back to Tromsø. During our leisurely drive back to the city, we were rewarded with majestic mountains, plunging waterfalls, and panoramic sea views. No matter which way we turned, there were breath-taking vistas, begging for a pitstop.  

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BOOK YOUR STAY AT MALANGEN RESORT VIA BOOKING.COM

Where to see the Northern Lights in Norway? 

Tromsø sits 69° N right in the centre of the aurora zone and is hence the best place to see the Northern Lights in Norway. That evening, we had arranged for the “Northern Lights Chase” tour with local company ‘Polar Adventures‘ in Tromsø. However, I received an e-mail late afternoon that our tour would be cancelled due to unfavourable weather conditions. Yes, it was rainy, cloudy and windy in Tromsø. But given our limited three-day stay in the city, we were not ready to put all our eggs in one basket.

Tromso, Norway

We spoke to some local tour operators in the city who were still running the tour despite harsh weather conditions. There, we learned there is always a 50 percent chance of a sighting on any given day during the season. We were lucky to find two vacant seats with another company, ‘Arctic Voyages‘. The ‘Northern Lights Chase’ tour approximately costs NOK 1400 (USD 128) per person.

Our first indication that this would be more of a hunt was when the guide informed us that the weather was not going to be in our favour that night. The tour would run from 8 pm until 3 am to increase the chances of our sighting, but we would have to drive to the Finnish border.  

What causes the Northern Lights? 

As soon as we settled into the black bus (our home for the next seven hours), our guide Manek gave us a rundown on what causes these mysterious light shows. Northern Lights occur when the electrically charged particles from the sun smash into Earth’s magnetic field. When funnelled down to the magnetic poles of the northern and southern hemispheres, this ‘solar wind’ creates green, red, and blue particles that shape-shift over the Arctic Circle. The phenomenon happens constantly — all you need is cloud-free skies and darkness to see them. 

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The level of activity is, however, indicated by the planetary K index or Kp. The Kp index ranges from 0 to 9. If the Kp index is between 0 to 2, the aurora is dim in intensity. For Kp in the range of 3 to 5, the aurora is brighter. For Kp in the range of 6 to 7, the aurora is pretty strong. We also installed the ‘My Aurora Forecast’ application that shows activity levels in the current location and the best locations to view the Northern Lights in real-time.  

What no one tells you about the Northern Lights sightings 

Northern Lights, Tromso

I kept looking outside the window, thinking maybe I’d see some activity. However, I quickly realised that that’s exactly why it’s called a “chase”. The number of times our tour guide used the term “chasing lights”, and emphasised the word “hopefully”, was enough to make me worry. We spent the next three hours seemingly driving away from the city lights (that cause light pollution and make it impossible to get a sighting) and cloudy skies before we crept up on the Finnish border in pursuit of clear skies. As the night grew colder, we drove further into Finland. Around 11:30 pm, our guide spotted some stars in the sky, and we took a break from driving the endless array of dark roads (and occasional rain). With our spirits high, we zipped our jackets and stepped out of the bus.  

The experience was surreal and restorative. Holding my husband in the middle of the deepest night, I realised that finding the lights wasn’t the magical part. It was this journey that mattered. Just as I started to thank my stars, my eyes caught sight of the many bright stars in the night sky.  

Camera settings and more… 

Northern Lights, Tromso

After 15 minutes, we started seeing faint green trails in the sky. Now, here’s a fun fact that you may not have known until now! Interestingly, the camera picks up the lights ten times better than the naked eye. So, the many photos that you see on social media are inherently misleading — because of the lens’ superior power to capture them.  

We, however, had our cameras (with night sky settings) and tripods ready. The only way you can get a decent photo is by using a tripod. I had no idea how to use a tripod or the night-sky setting on my Android phone. Manek was sweet enough to give us a tutorial on the bus. Shooting the Northern Lights is just like shooting stars, where you need a correct long exposure. It should ideally be between 2 to 30 seconds so that you capture more than your eyes can see. You must then adjust the shutter speed and aperture to capture the Northern Lights. 

Suddenly Manek said, “Hey guys! it looks like there’s some Northern Lights out here!” Beyond excited, we wiggled around. I always imagined that Aurora Borealis would dazzle the lights out of me. But all I could see was faint streaks of light in the sky. We clicked the night sky only to discover a gorgeous shade of green adorning the sky that was not visible to the naked eye. Manek was right, they looked like greyish-green clouds, but they were still bright enough to illuminate the mountains. 

Northern Lights, Tromso

About 15 minutes into it, they gave us hot chocolate which largely helped my numb fingertips get back to life. We got back on the bus, assuming the chase was over. However, Manek informed us that we could wait for another 15 minutes as the activity was getting stronger. We decided to walk a little further down the road and discovered that the Northern Lights usually run East to West. Suddenly, the lights got stronger, appearing, and disappearing at random. I attempted to take pictures with my phone and could see them! I kept staring into the sky, secretly thanking the universe for the magical night! 

The second chase and the dancing lights 

The next day, we booked another tour, with the hope of a better sighting (you see, it never seems enough). We joined Manek on the tour along with many other new tourists and some old ones. Luckily, that day, the sky was clear. We had to drive just for an hour before we could find a spot (without any light pollution). Manek also explained that we were going to head to a location that was showing some Northern Light activity. I was a little confused when we stopped in what seemed like the middle of nowhere surrounded by pine trees. But, as soon as I heard the “woahs” from everyone outside the bus, I decided to hurry up and get my layers on.  

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There, in the middle of the dark, was the Aurora Borealis which looked like the ones in the pictures. Then they soon disappeared, and they appeared again after an hour and started dancing. They looked like a silky green ribbon being waved around in the sky. They were moving fast, and I had no idea when they disappeared completely and never showed up. Auroras can go from zero to hero within minutes and vice versa.  

Northern Lights, Tromso
Northern Lights, Tromso

The Northern Lights are unpredictable and the weather in the Arctic can change in the blink of an eye. So, whenever you plan that Northern Lights trip, make sure to have a few days in hand to chase the aurora. You never know when you will get lucky. 

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(Main and feature image credit: Tania Tarafdar)

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Where in Norway can I see the Northern Lights? 

Tromsø sits 69° N right in the centre of the aurora zone and is hence the best place to see the Northern Lights in Norway.  

Do I need to go to a specific place to see the Northern Lights, or can I see them from major cities like Oslo and Bergen? 

To catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, you must travel to Northern Norway, above the Arctic Circle. Major cities like Oslo or Bergen are not within the Northern Lights’ viewing zones.

How can I increase my chances of seeing the Northern Lights in Norway? 

The optimal time to see the Northern Lights above the Arctic Circle is between late September and late March. Moreover, Northern Lights activity tends to be much more intense during the equinoxes — Spring Equinox (March 21) and Autumn Equinox (September 23). While the aurora borealis is visible from late August, it is the equinox that gives this cosmic light show an extra boost, often producing some of the bestactivity. 

What time of day is best for Northern Lights viewing? 

The Northern Lights can be seen at any time of the day if there is darkness, clear skies, and solar activity. However, the best time to see the Northern Lights is on dark, clear nights between late September and March.

What should I wear when viewing the Northern Lights in Norway? 

Wear thermal suits and jackets while chasing the Northern Lights as the temperatures can plummet significantly during these experiences. 

Are there any specific camera settings I should use to photograph the Northern Lights? 

Shooting the Northern Lights is just like shooting stars, requiring the correct long exposure. Ideally, your exposure time should range between 2 to 30 seconds to capture more than what your eyes can see. You must also adjust your shutter speed and aperture to capture the Northern Lights.

Are there Northern Lights tours available in Norway, and how do I book one? 

There are many Northern Lights tours available in Norway and you can book them online. You can also book them during your visit to Tromsø.

Is it guaranteed that I will see the Northern Lights during my trip to Norway? 

The Northern Lights are unpredictable, and the Arctic weather can change in the blink of an eye. So, whenever you plan that Northern Lights trip, make sure to have a few extra days in hand to chase the aurora.  

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