WHAT OTHER INGREDIENT CAN TURN a plate of scrambled egg into something nearing culinary nirvana? It’s the headily fragrant—eye-wateringly expensive—Italian white truffle, of course.
Nineteenth century composer Puccini nailed it when he called them “the Mozart of mushrooms.” Many more besides have tried to describe their remarkable, musky, gently funky flavor, but as always, the best way to find out is to find some, and get stuck in.
Peak white truffle season happens to be right about now, and so before it’s over, allow us to share five top spots in Hong Kong to indulge in style. Warn your bank manager and then head directly to these chefs to make it rain with liberal shavings of ‘tuber magnatum.’
Castellana Hong Kong
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White truffle charity dinner. Courtesy of Castellana
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White truffle auction. Courtesy of Castellana
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Venison carpaccio, charcoal, warm juniper dressing, Alba white truffle. Courtesy of Castellana
Truffles are serious business in Hong Kong and no annual event is bigger or more newsworthy than the annual white truffle charity auction, held in aid of Mother’s Choice, who support orphans and young mothers in difficulty. The 24th annual edition was curated by Italian white truffle expert Matteo Morello of Castellana Hong Kong, while a 1,004-gram Alba white truffle—yes, that’s more than a kilogram—sold for a record HK$1.1 million (US$141,000).
The winner, who was actually from Hong Kong, bested other bidders in locations including the Italian white truffles capital of Alba, as well as Singapore and Vienna. Castellana chef and Piedmont native Romeo Morelli served up an incredible menu to lucky diners on the night, but happily there are plenty more chances to try the tuber. Highlights of Castellana’s special white truffle menus include their ethereal signature ravioli filled with soft DOP Castelmagno cheese from Cuneo. And yes, lots and lots of freshly shaved white truffle.
Tosca di Angelo, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong
If you fancy making it rain from wayyyy up high, then it doesn’t get loftier than Tosca di Angelo, the one Michelin-starred spot atop The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, at one point the world’s tallest hotel, with guaranteed dazzling views across the +852.
Chef Angelo Agliano may be from Sicily, but his mastery in crafting Piedmont’s most famous export is renowned across the city. His special white truffle menu includes courses such as the perfect, elegant classic of homemade fettuccine; risotto “Acquerello,”named for the type of rice used; and also vanilla ice cream. All are liberally covered in Alba’s finest, shaved in front of your eyes.
Stellar wine pairings from a young and dynamic sommelier team and flawless service continue to make this one of the city’s most exciting and reliable Italian dining experiences.
Salisterra, The Upper House
The Upper House was recently named the fourth best hotel in the world by 50 Best, so much credit has to go to Salisterra, the property’s only restaurant, which is led by the supremely talented hands of chef Cary Docherty. Known by the city’s gourmands as a true flavor magician, there are few more sure-fire bets to ensure that truffles are treated with the respect they deserve.
A case in point: a fried egg. Cooked in olive oil with a light dusting of Parmesan, then finished by slices of white truffle, it takes on all the aromas of the damp forest floor of the gently rolling hills of Piedmont, to stunning effect. Elsewhere, wild mushrooms on toast make another beautiful platform, along with micro-planed hazelnuts, also from Piedmont, for a truffle terroir trinity.
Melody House of Food and Music
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White truffle croque madame. Courtesy of Melody
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White truffle espresso martini. Courtesy of Melody
One of Hong Kong’s hottest openings of the year comes in the form of Melody in the upper reaches of the popular Sai Ying Pun district. This dazzling destination combines a choice of moods in no fewer than five different rooms, a crack front-of-house service team led by the brilliant Jonathan Jones and a stellar music program, as their name suggests.
Most of all, however, it’s the flavor-driven menus served from lunch until late by chef Jamie Draper, one of Hong Kong’s most charismatic and popular culinary figures. With enviable
classical culinary training from years working as head chef for legends Michel and Albert Roux, his plates show deftness and deliciousness in equal measure. As for truffles, it’s difficult to get more enticing than a white truffle espresso martini, followed by a white truffle and duck egg croque madame, with white truffle “shake-n-bake” Pierre Koffman fries.
The Dining Room, The Rosewood Hong Kong
Finally, over the water of Victoria Harbor to Kowloon and no less a spot than the world’s No. 2 hotel according to 50 Best 2023: the beautiful Rosewood Hong Kong. Among its multiple dining options, The Dining Room by Bluhouse promises diners an unforgettable Italian gastronomic journey, helped in part by a wine cellar with more than 500 labels.
Naturally they’re the perfect pairing for white truffles, and a special five-course menu degustation celebrates them in style. Running a cool HK$2,488 (US$320) per person,
first up are poached organic eggs with spinach and potato foam. Our greedy eyes are drawn most to two pasta dishes: the homemade tagliolini with parmesan cheese and mountain butter as well as the passatelli in brood, swimming in a consommé of double boiled capon chicken.
As to the common ingredient atop all of them? You really don’t need to ask.
