In a city with no shortage of achingly beautiful views, there’s perhaps nowhere as transportive as the cobbled hill of Rue de l’Abreuvoir. Looking past the bus stop and twirling influencers, you can convince yourself you’ve stumbled into Paris’ past — a wisteria-laden marvel that slopes up toward Sacré-Cœur.
Once an independent commune, Montmartre was absorbed into Paris’ city limits in 1860, but the hilltop village has always retained a distinct sense of self. Famed for its religious, artistic, and at times seedy history, the neighbourhood’s iconic lampposts, steep steps, and panoramic views have drawn the likes of Picasso, Renoir, and hopelessly devoted Francophiles like myself with its bucolic charm.
I’ve spent more than a decade wandering the main tourist thoroughfares and beyond, finding secret gardens, romantic museums, retro photo booths, and hedonistic hotels along the way. Here, is a curated guide to the artistic haven of Montmartre, Paris’ timeless village.
Your guide to the picturesque village of Montmartre
Best things to do
Tour Sacré-Cœur Basilica
A visit to the Sacré-Cœur Basilica is essential to understanding the area’s history, and it’s well worth a trip inside to take in the grandeur of the apse mosaic and stained-glass windows. Known as the “wedding cake” for its impressively white exterior, the domed church is made from locally sourced travertine that releases calcite when it rains, which essentially bleaches the stone and keeps it looking pristine. Note that while the basilica opens at 6:30 am for visitors, the dome — which offers spectacular panoramic views over Paris — doesn’t open until 10 am.
Visit a museum
There’s no shortage of wow-worthy museums dedicated to Montmartre’s history, and each offers a different angle on the storied quartier. Musée de la Vie Romantique is a literary museum that’s housed in a sage-shuttered home and tucked down a cobbled alley full of rose bushes — utterly fitting, given the museum’s greenhouse cafe has been taken over by the fabulous Rose Bakery. Musée de Montmartre is a tribute to the neighbourhood’s artistic legacy: Both Renoir and French painter Suzanne Valadon made their studios there at one point, and the museum’s lush gardens offer magnificent views of the city and Clos Montmartre vineyard. Another worthwhile stop is Dalí Paris, where visitors can marvel at more than 300 works by the surrealist master.
Explore Halle Saint Pierre
Housed in a former covered market, this space is a must-visit for the magnificent architecture alone. Inside, you’ll find a museum, gallery, cafe, and one of the most beautiful bookshops in Paris.
Get your portrait drawn in Place du Tertre
Yes, it’s typically thronged with tourists, but if you’ve never been, the charm of this historic square shouldn’t be missed. While the fringe of restaurants adds to the village-like vibes, they’re overpriced and underwhelming. Instead, come here to admire the dozens of artists who keep the neighbourhood’s creative spirit alive by sketching portraits of visitors (for varying fees and degrees of quality, of course).
Channel your inner Amélie
Montmartre has been the backdrop for many movies through the years, but none so indelibly iconic as 2001’s “Amélie.” Trace the heroine’s journey through some of the film’s most memorable locations, including the Abbesses metro station and along picturesque Rue Lepic, home to Café des Deux Moulins, where she works in the film. All the way up the road, you can spot the Moulin de la Galette, one of the neighbourhood’s few remaining windmills, which attracted the attention of Renoir, Van Gogh, and many other artists who spent time nearby.
Snap some photos at FotoAutomat
Proper photo booth snaps are a playful souvenir to remember your trip, and luckily, there’s a vintage analogue photo booth just in front of the bucolic Abbesses Garden. FotoAutomat has been restoring the last remaining booths around the world since 2007, installing them in neighbourhoods dedicated to supporting the arts. Note that, unlike modern digital photo booths, this will take several minutes to print out your shots — which is why there tends to be a long line. But as with all film photography, the quality and wait are worth it.
Best Restaurants
L’Esquisse
Recommended by the Michelin Guide, the food at this intimate bistro is upscale and inventive without feeling fussy. Vintage Tolix chairs and wooden booths warm the space, which turns around an open kitchen where chef and owner Laëtitia Bret works her magic. A well-curated natural wine list further draws a convivial crowd of locals and in-the-know visitors.
Hardware Société
Montmartre’s most famous brunch spot has earned its reputation for good reason: This cosy Australian cafe sits at the foot of the basilica and churns out comforting yet surprising delights, like duck confit with saffron labne, and scrambled eggs with smoked pastrami on a crunchy baguette. It’s walk-in only, so be prepared to wait on weekends.
Pink Mamma
This oft-Instagrammed Italian joint from the popular Big Mamma Group delivers both decor and decadent dishes. Go for the portrait-lined stairwell that leads to a glass enclosure with views over the city; stay for the twirls of truffled pasta, Neapolitan-style pizza, and pillowy tiramisu.
Bouillon Pigalle
Red banquets, bustling waiters, carafes of house wine on every table: For a classic French feast that will fill you to bursting without breaking the bank, there’s no place like Bouillon Pigalle. Part of a chain of homey brasseries around the city, this two-story location offers views over the bustling avenue below and ladles out generous servings of French specialities like boeuf bourguignon, escargot, and hearty French onion soup. It’s open from noon to midnight every day, making it an excellent spot to stop off for late-night cravings.
L’Arcane
Those looking for a Michelin-starred meal to remember won’t be disappointed by the seasonal tasting menu at this elegant eatery on Rue Lamarck. Here, the classic white tablecloth ambience meets a modern gastronomic journey that’s perfect for a special occasion.
Mokko
Three or four ingredients per dish — that’s all it takes to craft sublime creations like lamb ravioli with black garlic jus and cucumber, creamy mushroom and parmesan polenta, and decadent chocolate mousse at Mokko. The wooden, warmly lit space is as pleasing to look at as the dishes themselves, and the natural wine list isn’t to be missed.
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Best Hotels
Hôtel Particulier Montmartre
There’s simply no place more charming to stay in Montmartre than this jewel-sized hotel. Formerly the Hermès family mansion, the three-story home is less than a 10-minute walk from Sacré-Coeur, yet it feels like a world of its own. Tucked away down an out-of-time alley, it’s wreathed in by a lush green garden and a sculpture-studded courtyard. Each of the five unique suites is a design lover’s dream — think mosaic-tiled soaking tubs and art deco murals in one, leopard print walls in another, and a view of the Eiffel Tower from the Prestige Suite on the top floor. A visit to the sultry cocktail bar and delightful French restaurant downstairs is a must even if you can’t nab a room at the hotel.
Book your stay at Hôtel Particulier Montmartre via Booking.com
Book your stay at Hotel Particulier Montmartre via Agoda.com
Maison Souquet
Just across the street from the Moulin Rouge, the marvellously lavish Maison Souquet offers a sensual retreat that pays homage to the hideaway’s former reputation as a discreet brothel for wealthy hedonists. The 20 rooms and suites are appointed with more than 120 different silks, as well as tasselled lamps, stuffed headboards, and fabric-cocooned walls that inspire as much envy and desire as the famous courtesans they’re named after. Couples seeking true privacy and indulgence are in for a treat here — and should be sure to request the key to the celestial swimming pool and hammam.
Book your stay at Maison Souquet, Hotel & Spa via Booking.com
Book your stay at Maison Souquet Hotel via Agoda.com
Hôtel Arvor
Halfway between Palais Garnier and Sacré-Coeur, this 30-room boutique hotel is infused with the genuine artistic spirit of Montmartre — something that feels impossibly rare to come by these days. During the pandemic, Russian-born artist Nina Koltchitskaia took up residency in the hotel, turning it into her own canvas with museum-worthy murals on the walls of each room. Now a haven of creativity, the hotel itself is built around an old-school spiral staircase, and rooms are nicely appointed with cosy bedding and otherwise minimalist decor.
Book your stay at The Hotel Arvor via Booking.com
Book your stay at The Hotel Arvor via Agoda.com
Hôtel Monsieur Aristide
If you can’t make it to the famous Saint-Ouen flea market during your trip, a visit to the exceptionally curated Hôtel Monsieur Aristide will offer a glimpse at what you’re missing. Full of vintage finds — think plush velvet chairs, mirrored vanities, and framed works of art — this 25-room guesthouse channels the bohemian spirit of the neighbourhood. Beyond the upcycled furnishings, the cheery terrazzo floor — crafted from the rubble of the building site during renovation — is another eco-friendly hallmark of this freshly updated space, which has operated as a hotel for more than a century under previous ownership.
Book your stay at Hôtel Monsieur Aristide via Booking.com
Book your stay at Hotel Monsieur Aristide via Agoda.com
Best Shopping
La Butte Fromagère
Just thinking about this tiny artisanal cheese shop makes my mouth water. It boasts a superior selection of aged Comté and Mimolette, creamy Saint-Félicien, and goat cheese for every palate, primarily sourced from small French farms.
La Cave des Abbesses
Part bottle shop, part wine bar, part pâté purveyor, La Cave des Abbesses is a gourmand’s heaven. Open since 1986, this local institution is the perfect place to tuck into a platter of cheese and charcuterie at apéro hour or to grab a bottle for a picnic overlooking the city from the steps of the basilica.
Vintage Stores
Amid Paris’ kilo shops and overwhelming thrift stores, there are a few exceptional places for one-of-a-kind vintage finds. For expertly curated denim, head to Numéro Deux, an appointment-only showroom dedicated to vintage Levi’s, with a focus on 501s. At Chinemachine on Rue des Martyrs, prepare to sift through racks and descend the spiral staircase into the basement for designer picks and ‘60s party dresses — they’re well-priced and worth the search. A bit farther afield is one of my favourite boutiques in the city, Vintage Inspiration Paris. The store’s quirky owner will gleefully help you try on YSL blazers and Hermès handbags; the selection isn’t cheap, but it’s divine.
Rock Bottles
Natural wine lovers shouldn’t miss this epic cellar, which several French sommeliers have recommended to me as their personal favourite in Paris. The wine shop is small but mighty, with a selection of spectacular organic and biodynamic producers, both well-established and little-known.
Best Nightlife
Moulin Rouge
This legendary cabaret was once the pinnacle of Parisian nightlife, and while ticket prices are steep for the “Féerie” show, how many times do you get to see a proper French cancan in your life? The spectacular is a mesmerising tribute to Paris’ past, and well worth the price of admission.
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(Feature image credit: Alexander Spatari/Getty Images)
This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com
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